When it comes to BBQ I am as picky as a New Yorker has a right to be. Having eaten in some of the BBQ meccas (Texas, the Carolinas, hell even wild boar on a spit in northern Italy)I'm aware that BBQ is not something we often do well or consistantly and I've accepted this about my home
Hill Country has been my go-to barbeque spot and Fette Sau has a few somewhat superficial things in common with it. You buy your meat by the pound at both places. Both use rubs more than slathering sauces. Both hold brisket in it's rightful place as most important thing to get right.
While Hill Country seems like a New Yorker's bad attempt at looking like a Texas smokehouse, Fette Sau revels in its all the eclectic charms of Williamsburg. Perhaps you might say - even some of the hipster douchiness, but stay with me; this place is five kinds of epic.
Some foodie friends invited me out knowing how I feel about meat. I like it. I like it a lot. I'd heard good things about Fette Sau so when I arrived at the converted auto mechanic's garage and found a line of intensely hungry people with sweating jars of beer in their hands waiting for food I got in line and started imagining.
The place is charming in it's Samford & Son aesthetic and as I got to the counter I saw two women who looked like roller-derby bruisers (hot, tattood, muscled) expertly distributing meat.
The brisket was simply the best brisket I've ever had, Maybe life altering The fat was caramelized and the meat had the most perfectly tender almost sticky texture. The flavor was intensely rich with a slight sweetness and a saltiness that amplified that richness. There was not much smokiness there, but that's actually a plus to me. Smoke, like spiciness, is pretty easy to do and if not done right just masks other flavors. This was perfect.
I saw someone across the way putting some sauce on this brisket and I almost jumped over the table and smacked the bottle out of their hand. Then again I was in the throws of some kind of "meat haze" by then so I wasn't fully in control of my faculties.
The pork belly was a fatty salty treat. Somewhere between a thick slab of bacon and a pork loin, it was all at once decadent and simple. It's a little much to have a lot of, but as a small taste of it was perfect. Don't get more than a quarter pound.
I think if I had the pulled pork some other time I would have been thrilled by it. On a little roll with some of the excellent coleslaw and a bit of the BBQ sauce it was delicious probably in the top five in the city, but it was so overshadowed by how amazing the brisket was that I was wishing I didn't waste the plate space.
The beans were spectacular. If I can again compare this to Hill Country, which also has some burnt ends of brisket in it, there were a far richer and sweeter baked bean than the "cowboy" style at Hill Country.
The coleslaw was interesting with bits of cabbage, coleslaw and even peppers, though next time I might skip all vegetables and just see how much brisket I can fit inside of my mouth without dying.
The beer selection was awesome with eight microberews served in jam jars or jugs. I was quiet happy with a quart of a very hoppy southern IPA but was shocked at how good the Manhattans my co-pigs had ordered. They had a bunch of great bourbons and other whiskeys as well as some good looking wines and interesting mixed drinks. They also had some great old fashion sodas which I would have tried but by the time I noticed them I was teetering on explosion.
Fette Sau is not someplace to go that often. It's rich and complex and wonderful. It's like bone marrow, tough to dig out but worth it if you know how to enjoy a delicacy. Sure, you have to wait in line, hunt for a seat, juggle plates and beer as the smells drive you insane with hunger. Yet it's all part of the plan, because when you finally do it sit down your mouth is dripping with saliva and when that first bit of slightly charred, salty, sticky, delicious meat hits your mouth everything fades away and there is only bliss. It is transcendent dining.
In the end Fette Sau exemplifies something that love about New York. We are a city which for the most part considers itself the antithesis of the south and yet our namesake drink (the Manhattan) is made with bourbon. We are a city of strong characters and strong egos, but we will put them aside when it comes to quality. Fette Sau is quality dining. read more