There are a few Michelin-starred spots in the heart of Bruges, and Den Gouden Harynck is one of them - just a couple minutes from the heart of town, on a side road with a relatively small entryway. Once inside, you definitely feel like you have stepped into a dining room with the elegance befitting the charming little town it resides in. There's a small garden outside (with a table to boot - probably for lunch use only), but the rest of the dining room feels very cozy and definitely maintains the feel of old Europe, even if the food being cooked is squarely in the heart of modern European cuisine. Service here is okay, but I did feel that the English was somewhat limited. We were also given no menus at all (not even a drink menu), which left us heavily reliant on the waiter to simply bring us white wine or red wine that they were willing to serve us by the glass. This turned out okay in the end - their choices were solid - but given that there was a gregarious Danish table that spoke to the servers in English that got a menu to look at, it did feel like we got a bit of the short end of the stick, especially at the end of the meal...we sat for probably 15-20 minutes after it was clear we had finished dessert, and we still had to call the waiters over to explicitly ask for the check. The chef was actually the most pleasant to speak with - his English is quite good, and he recounted some of his fond memories of West Coast America when he took a family trip out there.
His food is absolutely delicious as well. Without trying to be too clever, the food here stuck with fish and meats that paired well particularly with herbs (think dill) and, surprisingly, chutney. A couple of the dishes had vaguely subtle hints of spice, notably the grilled sea bream, which was served with a sauce and lentils that definitely had a bit of warmth to it. I also really enjoyed the first dish, which was a good portion of lobster meat served on top of lettuce and sprinkled with dill oil and dotted with herbed cream that made for a deliciously complex lobster salad. We then moved to the meats, starting with a supremely succulent goose liver topped with chives and pomegranates and soaked peaches...with 3 'bites', it is a solid helping of rich, fatty goodness that, combined with the fruit and the acidity of the chives, made for an excellent dish. The main course was lamb cooked a little rarer than I would like, but it still had an excellent crisp on top, making for a juicy yet crunchy bite. The au jus was a little lighter than usual but a nice accentuation of the flavor of the dish, while the tiny potato cake on the side was a nice little complement (and well-crisped itself) to the meat. Dessert was a nice, light finish - a basil-infused sorbet over some seriously fresh strawberries and raspberries, paired with some thin sticks of apple.
For a 5-course tasting menu, the price came out very reasonably - a tad under 100 euros a person, IIRC. If you're from out of town, I think the level of service may vary a bit, and if anything, that was the biggest disappointment here. But I really enjoyed the coziness of the space otherwise, the straightforward execution of the food with sauces that really worked with each dish without straying for the sake of exploration. Definitely worth a trip back - perhaps for lunch - and highly recommended for those looking for a high-class dining experience without having to travel outside of town. read more