Alright, so when it comes to getting food, nothing beats Queens, and when it comes to Queens, it's difficult to beat Sunnyside. In terms of population mix, there is a population of Romanians and Turks up north, Koreans towards the middle, the Irish towards Roosevelt Avenue, and Latinos along the south. If you walk down Queens blvd you will no doubt run into a mixture of all those ethnicities, with the south side dominated by relatively upscale Latin joints. Due to the influx of the B24/B39 bus you will often find hipsters sneaking up past the cemeteries from Billyburg, Bushwick or Ridgewood. They definitely leave their marks upon the local foodscape by leaving accidentally hilarious reviews - "This places does not offer unisex bathrooms the tempeh burrito isn't made with non-GMO beans, I got the runs and daddy's health insurance won't cover me past 26". Yeah, great.
For those of us whose experience in Mexican cuisine involves a talking chihuahua, oversized corn saddles and ketchup packets of "picante sauce" (sure, if your idea of exotic cuisine includes The Olive Garden), this is not how you do things in Mexico (us Chinese don't freaking fry rice with pork and serve it with heavily sauced fried nuggets of pork either, but try to convince the wonderbread customers of Panda Express. The mixing pot narrative encourages some poor attempts at culinary endeavors). Mexican food isn't about refried beans or the Red Hook sludge (something raw slimy and green, aka pre-shredded iceberg, combined with mediocre shredded yellow cheese, slathered with meaty diarrhea). It's about freshly roasted and ground spices, fresh ingredients and everything made by hand with attention to detail.
Enter De Mole. It's located on a somewhat quieter part of South Sunnyside on 48th Avenue. South Sunnyside have some really decent eats - I heart Paraguay, Cemitas de Tigre, The Haab, Turkish Mangal and some very good local taquerias and pollos joints. So what makes De Mole more interesting than its cousin The Haab (they are both in the business of slinging overpriced Mexican brunches in a premium dining environment)? One word? Depth. If you want to go beyond simply the usual huevos rancheros but don't have the huevos to hit taquerias in the Mexicano neighborhoods for something different? Well, here's your safe space for them.
I mean, granted, you are not getting chile lime grasshoppers or pigs ears with your tacos, but if you want a torta sandwich with oaxaca cheese, pickled jalapenos, tomatoes and braised pork leg (*gasp!* it's not a fried cutlet), or if you want your quesadilla packed with squash blossoms and corn smut (fungus infected corn, looks like bird poop but taste great) - this is where you would go. Go ahead and order yourself a glass of aqua fresca (flor de Jamaica is always good), because it's pretty close to what you will get in Sunset park. That being said, my wife said that on her mole poblano, the rice on the side is kinda bland, and the quesadilla that I wolfed down is garnished with iceberg lettuce...clear signs of some serious cost-cutting regression there. Hopefully it's not like some reviewers pointed out - that they used to taste better. For me, I know of cheaper and more rewarding places, but if I have to take people for a Mexican brunch (and they are getting bored of The Haab or La Flor on 52nd), this is a good pick. read more