Claro is clearly not your ordinary Mexican restaurant.
This is not the place to bring a picky date who thinks she can just order a chicken quesadilla if she doesn't see anything she likes on the menu. They aren't just doing simple (but awesome) tacos like you get from El Atoradero at Parklife a few blocks away. Likewise, this is not the hearty portions of rice and beans Tex Mex you get at Lobo over on Court.
This is New Brooklyn Mexican, where the food is beautiful, delicious, and very, very small. Also spicy, and often weird. Weird can be wonderful, or it can be the worst; thankfully, Claro winds up in the former category far more often than the latter.
The shrimp aguachile will punch you in the face with its refreshing heat. The mole negra is dope; I always worry that mole may be too chocolatey, but this sauce layered over a roasted chicken leg is deeply flavorful, complex, and so very tasty. I don't even know how to describe the squash salad other than strange, but I love it.
Chile rellenos are always a good decision. A scallop tostada has replaced the lobster on the menu, and it's actually gorgeous (I wish the low lighting would let me do it proper justice in a photo), and lets the fresh seafood shine. The barbacoa is perhaps my favorite dish, but absolutely needs more tortillas to balance out the meaty deliciousness (how're you just going to give us three?).
Unsurprisingly, these dishes are all "designed to share," and yet very, very difficult to do so. Cutting memelas into six pieces with a butter knife isn't ideal, but goddamn are the memelas tasty. I thoroughly enjoyed my tiny sliver of each. The ingredients seem to change often, but of the two we've had, I prefer the pork to the squash (because I always prefer the pork, but the squash was still excellent).
The high quality apparent in the back of the house extends to the bar; I'd call the Nectar Negra the best new cocktail I've had in some time. Perhaps it just appeals to my palate, but the balance of the smoky mezcal, the sweet blackberries and serrano honey, the acidity of lemon juice, and the fresh punch of cilantro...this is balanced, good work.
If anything strays to the dark side of weird, I'd say it was dessert. On the one hand, the frozen candied apple with goat's milk was tart and sweet and kind of worked. The candied squash with whipped cream, less so. This was described to us as almost a squash pie without the crust, and it certainly could've benefited from a crust, in this man's opinion.
I do appreciate that they are trying new things, though. It seems fitting in the space vacated by the avant-garde (but occasionally awful) Pines, and I'm happy to report that Claro is far more consistent than their predecessor, and just a better restaurant overall.
Looking forward to my next visit. read more