This avant garde dining experience begins by entering Eric Owen Moss' super creative, undulating…read more"Waffle" building. I'm then taken to the top floor, where the kitchen is located. The chefs work in an all-glass, cathedral-like space bathed in sunlight. It really is beautiful.
I'm then taken down one floor where the first few courses are served. This room is also bathed in light and it's a fun space to watch the sun set over the industrial neighborhood that surrounds the restaurant. The service was incredible.
Overall, the meal was fun though I thought only half of the dishes were particularly good. Is this place worth 2 Michelin stars and the hefty price tag? (My total bill came out to $750 all in, per person) I'd say no. You're definitely paying a premium for the theater, but the food itself is rather mid when compared to other fine dining.
This was my menu:
1) Alaskan diver scallops with chilled passion fruit juice and topped with petunia petals. This dish was such a great starter. The scallops were super fresh and tender. Their clean crisp flavor served as a wonderful base note to the sweet tartness of the passion fruit.
2) Raw deep sea prawns caught 2500 ft below the ocean surface off the coast of Kauai. The shrimp are topped with little bits of pink lady apples and cherry blossoms, topped with a poached apple vinaigrette, and served in a giant block of handcarved ice.
3) The Obsidian Mirror - a multi-layered dish focused on mussels. There's a layer of mussel gel dyed with black squid ink, a layer of mussel panna cotta with water chestnut, and a thin layer of kelp oil on top to give the dish a reflective sheen. I'm handed a beautiful mussel mother of pearl shell to serve as my spoon.
4) Barley koji cake layered with Japanese mountain spinach, courgette (zucchini), fresh herbs, and egg yolk. The dish is then finished off with a creamy sauce of Normandy butter and sake yeast and freshly grated yuzu, and a few spritzes of yuzu essence. I thought this fully vegetarian dish was going to be ho hum. Boy was I wrong! It was packed with deeply rich flavor and powerful umami. I loved it!
5) A dish inspired by Lassen Volcano in Northern California. A steelhead trout warmed on Japanese charcoal, topped with pine mushrooms. The dish is served with a "Seed of Life" geometric puree, made from emberred chilis, wild nettles, and wild garlic
6) Steelhead trout belly custard topped with smoked juniper and trout roe, finished with the vapor of juniper. Nice rich flavor, though not my favorite dish.
7) Vacaville quail breast prepared with rice koji and scented with wax flowers. Served with an emulsion of quail, black trumpet mushroom, and alder tree pinecone. Also served with sourdough bread deep fried in quail fat.
8) Quail thigh wrapped in poached leaf and plated with chanterelle buttons. Topped with a vinaigrette of roasted quail, Concord grape and peppercorn. This dish was so savory and delicious. I loved the tangy punch of the vinaigrette that was also richly savory because of the roasted quail.
At this point, I was led down one more floor to the ground level.
9) Sonoma dry-aged duck served with caramelized yeast fudge with puree of plantain and herbs. Topped with an emulsion foam. This was not the finest piece of duck I've ever had. There were a fair bit of tendons in the meat.
10) A caramelized sourdough pancake with light cream, brown butter jam, and fresh market pluots. I did not enjoy this course. The pancake caramelization was bitter. The toppings weren't to my liking either. The only element I enjoyed were the the pluots.
11) Parsnip ice with parsnip ice cream and Tiger nut marzipan topped with Aloe liquor
13) An homage to Chef Jordan's layer cake. Frozen black raspberry, roasted almond praline, sheep's milk yogurt, and chips of roasted beets
My wine and sake pairing was as follows:
1) Vilmart & Cie Premier Cru Champagne
2) Mendocino Pinot grapes fermented with red peppercorn, black currant, and kombucha
3) Austrian Kolfok Furmint 2022 - dry white wine
4) Kurodasho Monryu sake
5) Les Roncières Chablis Premier Cru
6) Agan red wine from the Canary Islands
7) Fonteinen aged Belgian lambic
8) Douglas fir needle tea with rosehips
9) Redwood sapling juice, fermented with grapes and birch sap. This was sooooon good!