Living in south Snohomish County, it turns out, means eating really well. You don't eat very well if you look for typical mainstream American food in the busy parts of town. But there's so much good food from other culinary traditions scattered throughout hidden spots that you can never really run out of good stuff as long as you're willing to try new things. Budapest Bistro is apparently the only Hungarian place for miles and miles and miles in any direction, and it's certainly the first I have tried. The food is pretty spectacular, and very well-priced.
First, let's address the things that could be seen as drawbacks here. It's a ways from town, so, if you're coming up from Seattle, you'll be on the freeway for a minute. It's all freeway, though (I-5 and 525): you're going 60 pretty much until you hit the turn lane to get in here. But you get here and there's plenty of free parking, since it's a suburban development. Inside, unfortunately, the place is lit like a cafeteria, with institutional fluorescent tubes mounted in an acoustic tile subceiling. This place was a Hungarian deli before it was a Hungarian restaurant, but they kept the deli case and deli lighting, so, brace yourself for a so-so first impression through the window.
Inside, though, it's a fun and welcoming spot. The service is quick and friendly, and actually really funny. The owner and her husband crack a lot of jokes, which just seem all the funnier for being told in heavy Hungarian accents. Their front of house staff are charming and know the menu well--they factor in a lot of advice for less-adventurous American diners, but they still encourage you to try new things and explain why these unfamiliar dishes are good. Each day's menu is written on a little whiteboard across the room, which they read to you like a specials list. There were two soups, two salads, and five entrees when we came in.
Last night, they had been slammed all day. In our effort to let everybody at the table try as many different things as they wanted, we cleaned them out of the last helpings of a couple things and they had to erase part of the board after the five of us ordered. We had the chicken paprikash, hunter's chicken, house-pulled sausage, schnitzel, and a couple other things that escape me now. You have your choice of pasta, rice, or spaetzle next to whichever entree you order, and you also have your choice of a soup or a salad.
Each dish is seasoned with great balance and character. At times for me, fooling around with eastern european recipes in my own kitchen means overdoing it with the paprika or some other seasoning I want to emphasize, just because I like explosive flavors and can be a goof. But the way the owner cooks everything here is like your grandmother would make to put you at ease after a long day's work outside, or for a special occasion. It's just that your grandma, here, has access to a completely different spice rack.
The sausage was particularly interesting, densely packed and richly flavored. They brought out squeeze bottle mustard for it, which was a little bit of a drag even though it tasted good. But, again, you feel like you're at a picnic table in grandma's yard. It would just be neat to see them make their own mustard and give the place that one additional touch of scratch-made Hungarian love food. The sauerkraut soup was fantastic, and none of us had ever even heard of such a thing before we sat down. The schnitzel was wonderfully crispy with great flavor, and the chicken paprikash was beautifully juicy and showed a combination of seasonings you just don't see elsewhere.
The desserts are all house-made, and everything we tried was good. We focused on cakes and then some mazurka-like concoctions whose names escape me now. The dessert case also holds a few dozen Belgian and eastern european beers, and the whiteboard boasted of hot spiced wine, which we didn't try. We had multiple split plates, five entrees, five desserts, and six beers for $180--$36 a plate for enough good food to beach a baleen whale. I'll definitely be back, especially given that it's ten minutes from my house. read more