Bell's is housed in the former Bell Street Farms, gourmet delicatessen and market
space which was established by Jamie Glück.
This mini Beaux Arts style building may be the most formal looking structure in all of Los Alamos except for the Victorian Mansion with unusual themed rooms making it the Disneyland of bed & breakfasts.
However, during the Pandemic pleasant back patio dining is the default mode for their noted 5 course prix fixe menu when I dined on 2021-2-19.
Tyler, my excellent waiter-sommelier & sage food advisor whose familiarity with the food being presented as well as deep knowledge of French cuisine & wine in general, made for great wine pairings and my stay at Bell's a revelatory experience.
He is an expert at creating warm, accommodating, welcoming hospitality on par with what I experienced at inimitable Gary Danko & Bar Crenn. I'm sure Tyler's stint at Trois Étoile Guide Michelin Atelier Crenn helped polish his already formidable skill set. Bravo!!!
1) Amuse Gueule:
Soft plush, sweet sea minerality, light organ meat funk Santa Barbara Uni topped w/ optional Regiis Ova Hybrid Caviar that is Malossol, mildly fishy, buttery, nutty, soft.
The base is thin Millefeuille de Crêpes/mini pancakes slathered with butter fat rich, fermented Crème Fraîche. All the textures are soft, plush, suave continuing on to infinity.
1a) Crémant de Jura, Domaine Rolet Père et Fils NV:
Vin Pétillant/fizzy wine with scent of bread, grapefruit zest; flavours that are yeasty, dry sweetness, smooth yet acidic, touch bitter. Finish is dry, yeasty, tingly.
"70% Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau in the base wine blend (Poulsard and Savagnin are allowed for the balance)"
2) Salade of Finley Farm Lettuces:
Nice palate cleanser. Shallot & date vinaigrette is sharp, sweet, oniony.
2a) Crémant de Jura, Domaine Rolet Père et Fils NV
3) Motley Crew Ranch Rabbit en Croûte:
This rabbit died for a good cause. It was a Confit braised for 8 hours in its own juices and fat. Texture reminded me of pulled pork enclosed in a golden brown, flakey Pâte Brisée pastry shell.
Garnished with bitter, medicinal celery top leaves. (Good application of waste not, respect all parts.) Sauce Bordelaise added red wine based fond de cuisine Umami & gastrique. Initially this dish looked like a golden Île Flottante sitting in a sea of dark, venous red wine.
3a) Black Sheep Finds, Syrah, "Holus Bolus", Sta. Rita Hills, 2018:
Deep ruby red. Scents of strong blueberry, blackberry, medicinal cherry, brown sugar toastiness.
Classic Rhône style, but more smooth & sweet. Suave acidity, brandied cherry, slight burnt creosote, green pepper note. Ending in peppery, bitter, brandied cherry finish.
4) Steak au Poivre:
5oz Culotte/Top Sirloin Cap, Boneless. This may be the definitive au Poivre west of the Atlantic Ocean. Almost elliptically, cylindrical in shape encrusted with dark, spicy, smoky cracked black pepper then seared grilled brown on the surface contrasting to the rubid, red core and dusky rose medium rare finish.
It's visually stunning to carnivores. Beefy Umami, whisper of fatty chaw yet soft w/ blood minerality from the aging. The over the top finisher is the Peppercorn Sauce. Deep meaty, brothy, thickened & punctuated by peppercorns.
Pommes frites seemed to be double fried. Crisp w/ a creamIness & good earthy potato flavour.
4a) Habit Cabernet Franc, Coquelicot Vinyard, Sta. Ynez, 2019:
Bouquet is earthy, brandied cherry, blueberry, woody, bell pepper. Tastes sweet, grainy texture from the tannins, cherry, blackberry, compote of black fruits. Ending in a sweet, fruity raspiness. Good rough red wine to stand up to strong aromatics of the black pepper.
5) Gâteau Breton:
Sort of like a cross between cheese cake & Crema Catalana custard. Dry, heavy compressed texture. Eggy, buttery, toasted sugar, pound cake lIke. This cake crosses many pastry borders.
5a) Manzanilla 17/71, Jerez, Alexander Jules, Barrel Solera, 2013:
"This comes from the great Sanlúcar de Barrameda producer, Bodegas Argüeso. It is a barrel selection of the San León solera, which is the source of Argüeso's serious Manzanilla Reserva."
Bouquet of over ripe bananas. Woody, nutty, astringent, bit dry, bitter which is a good contrast to the sulphury egginess of the Gâteau Breton.
Tyler and rest of the staff were friendly, helpful, and made me feel at home. It was comforting to see the late afternoon sun fade to dusk and to the velvety darkness of evening.
I feel that Bell's ranks at least Une Étoile Guide Michelin status. Restaurants in Los Angeles that have comparable food competence and less service than that given out by the likes of Tyler have achieved that status. 5 stars
Note that Bell's does not have a phone - contact them via Instagram or email. read more