I sat on writing this review for a full 24 hours to settle my thoughts...but nothing has changed: my dinner at Apolonia was the most disappointing dinner I've eaten out this year.
This is not to say that the experience was bad, mind you. This is to say that as someone who is a HUGE fan of this team--S.K.Y., Somerset--I came in with expectations that might have been too high. (Full disclosure: I have eaten at S.K.Y. at least 14 times.)
And the space is fantastic; the kitchen, the seating, the windows, the random musical tracks all worked well for our group. Sure, the acoustics on a crowded Saturday night will be a problem, but at 8:30 PM on a Thursday, not too big of an issue.
And the desserts by Tatum Sinclair are amazing...the great work she brought to S.K.Y. continues at Apolonia. (Second full disclosure: I love the desserts at S.K.Y. so much that I worked with Tatum to set up a dessert tasting menu for a dessert-only dinner with family and friends a couple of years ago; I believe she is the best pastry chef in Chicago, and awards like her 2020 Jean Banchet Award for best rising pastry chef make me feel pretty good about that statement.)
This dinner at Apolonia was a bust because it was so shockingly inconsistent...and for the price--$393 for a four-top, before tip--I'm going to wait a few months before trying it again.
My wife and two friends came to Apolonia for dinner last night, and we tried 12 different dishes.
The black truffle puff bread, the stonefruit and cream dessert, the Apolonia cookie, the fiorentini pasta dish and the scallops--just the scallops, not the bed of tagliatelle those scallops resided on--were all pretty good. Nothing from that group was special, but it was all solid. $16 for a bread dish is hefty, but the puff bread did have some great flavors.
And kudos to the staff for proving me wrong: these pasta dishes gave me the feeling they would be half portions, but for the most part, you could get away with any of the four pastas on the menu as a full-blown entree.
But that's where most of the kudos end.
Let's back up a bit, and start with the service. Amber was excellent and she brought a lot of energy to the description of all of our dishes, and even though her "favorites" ended up being about two-thirds of the menu, she seems to really love all of the dishes and seemed keen to get our feedback on some of those dishes throughout our meal. So, this was a plus.
But then, we got a minus: all of the dishes are served family style. Fine. That means I'm going to need clean plates regularly because so many different flavors are moving from the serving dish to get to my individual plate. But we didn't get our first round of new plates until after dish FIVE.
Another ding: with the initial apps and salads, we at one point had five of them on the table at once. The tables are great at Apolonia but I wouldn't call them spacious, so I would have been fine slowing down the speed of when each dish hit the table.
Sometimes, our drinks came out fast, particularly glasses of wine. This was also the first time I can ever remember ordering my standard-issue glass of prosecco to kick off a night and I was offered the chance to taste a sip before getting the full pour. Apologies to Amber for looking so confused when this happened!
However, cocktails were a different story. I ordered the Not So Melancholy cocktail, and it took nearly half an hour to arrive. Coffee came out quickly, though, in what have to be the biggest coffee cups we have seen in months, maybe ever! I get it; every restaurant in the city is short-staffed right now, so I'm building that into my expectations. Still, at the point of the night when I ordered this cocktail, there were maybe 8 tables of guests left in the restaurant.
Back to the food. The yellowfin crudo? So-so. The tagliatelle under those scallops? Tasty, but not amazing. I enjoyed the flavor of the spicy bucatini pomodoro; some nice back-door heat, which worked well.
Then we have to address the dishes that missed:
1. The warm heirloom tomatoes? The biggest surprise of our night, this dish just didn't work at all. The tomatoes were buried under goat cheese, and the flavors just didn't ring with our group.
2. The green goddess wedge? Bathing in dressing. I don't know what happened here; maybe it was plated and sat too long before being served to our table? Lettuce just doesn't work when drenched this way!
3. The ravioli? Oh boy. We left about a third of these in the bowl; limp, and not much in the way of flavor.
4. The pork confit? Surprisingly bland, but worse, not nearly tender enough.
5. The lamb tenderloin special? I'm going to take some of the blame here--when I hit a new place, I never get the specials. We rolled the dice here and lost. Beautiful presentation, but for $52, I need something special to happen and that was not the case here.
I'll be back for dessert. Dinner? Let's talk next year. read more