Let's step back for a moment and take a look at the Ainscough family business, which runs not only this restaurant but also a deli on Falkner Street called Number Seven and the Eagle and Child, a pub in the village in which I grew up - Parbold. No lie. And I'm so going back there to review it knowing this, not because one-of-my-old-best-friends-who-I-no-longer-speak-to-and-has -a-gazillion-kids used to manage it, but for my Yelpic duty. Yes, I travel to the Greater Manchester and Merseyside equivalent of the Outer Hebrides so you don't have to.
But we shall take a look at Ziba. First of all, upon my Friday night visit it was a wee bit worrying to see the place looking... well, kind of empty. Have not enough people heard of it or something? Well, it's tucked away in the Racquet Club hotel, that could be one reason. Hotel-based restaurants often suffer from the disinterest of non-guests. And it's certainly pretty enough, it more than looks the part with its spacious bar and dining area, huge doors and tall ceilings. It used to live in Berry Street and was ridiculously popular, but doesn't seem to be faring quite as well here.
The food can be a bit pick n' mix in terms of its quality, and it's a little worrying that they don't boast about where it's from or how seasonal or organic it is. Meat-eating companions assure me that their lambs and steaks are spot on, but I have heard complaints about the pigeon being tough. When I myself ordered salmon there was nothing wrong with the texture or temperature, it just felt a little... meh. Flavour was lacking in serious quantities. And the puddings can be a little rubbery in my experience.
Perhaps because of new strings being added to the bow of the Ainscough chain, Ziba's becoming a bit overlooked. It needs to make more of its lunchtime menu considering it's located in the business district, which from experience with Spinningfields restaurants in Manchester, I know can be a curse when it comes to getting the evening revellers in. It could do with a bit more zest, a splash more life and slightly better service, but all in all it has the makings of a very good restaurant. read more