I will admit - I sought out Yam'Tcha because of Netflix. Normally, I'm wary of anything that even has a hint of fusion, but after seeing how chef Adeline Grattard trained formally in Hong Kong, I was intrigued.
For dinner, it's one tasting menu for €150. Wine pairings are €70 for 6 glasses, but there's also a tea pairing, which seemed interesting. There's also a wine + tea pairing (3 of each) for €55, so we did one full wine pairing and one tea + wine pairing since we had seen how Chef Adeline's husband, Chi Wah, is meticulous about choosing and brewing the teas.
We started with a large warm gougere and oolong tea from Taiwan.
Onto the tasting:
1. To start: served with a dry Riesling
- Spring roll: the outside was thin, and it had distinct flavors of the tofu skin dim sum dish with a bit of smokiness and wood ear mushrooms - definitely the most refined spring roll I've had.
- Vegetable shrimp dumpling: the dumpling (har gow) had shrimp but also vegetables and was very clean tasting (unlike the traditional kind which I'm pretty sure used lard).
- Green bean salad with foie gras: thinly sliced tender green beans with a foie gras sauce
2. Octopus, cockles, onion soubise, potatoes, dehydrated egg yolk, and a lemon sabayon with a steamed mantou on the side. I was surprised by the steamed bun, and it was definitely a unique accompaniment to dish.
3. Sweetbread benign over spinach and a fermented bean curd sauce. The beignet was all sweetbread - I'm not a huge fan, so I felt bad not being able to finish it, but it was a generous portion. The spinach was super tender and had the very distinct flavor of Chinese wok sautéed garlic greens. Normally, I found the fermented bean curd overpowering, but this sauce was more subtle and held up well to the sweetbread.
4. Sea bass: with braised eggplant and a mushroom five spice emulsion. The eggplant had a nice char on the outside, and the five spice was subtle but really interesting with the mushroom
5. Pork: with shiitakes and shaoxing wine sauce. This was paired with a Jura, which had surprisingly similar characteristics to the shaoxing wine
6. Steamed bun with Amarena cherry and stilton: way more interesting than your usual cheese course. The port paired with this was perfect for the stilton
7. Apple verbena cake, and a dish of citrus, almond cake, and figs on the side. This was a nice, light, fruit centered dessert that wasn't too sweet. I don't usually like ciders, but the cider it was paired with was pretty perfect for it
To finish:
Coconut sorbet with cacao nibs
The tea pairings were interesting, but I think my palate for tea isn't refined enough to get all the subtleties. I wish there had been at least one red wine in the wine pairing, but the dishes really were better with white wines, and I liked the interesting variety of whites we tried. There was an interesting Italian that was a white but had skin contact and was a deeper color with hints of red wine in flavor.
The food was French but with some very on point hints of Chinese flavors (ex the spinach, the shaoxing wine sauce, the tofu skin flavor in the spring roll, etc). It wasn't like American fusion where it's just soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil. Chef Adeline had legit technique and integrated the two types of cuisine really well. I'm glad I saw the Chef's Table episode just in time!
Reservations are hard to come by - by phone only, and instructions on the opening dates for reservations are on the website. Dinner is served only Wednesday to Saturday, but they have a lunch service, as well. read more