Let me first off state the obvious: this food is different. VERY different. As to the earlier review by a person of Lao heritage, Washington Post recently had an article about Thip Khao's owner in which she traveled back to Laos and found the food to have been watered down to meet Western tastes, much to its apparent detriment. So don't necessarily come expecting this to match your preexisting notions of "authenticity." This is more like historically Lao food, from the loving memory of a chef who associates it with happier memories of home. It might best be thought of as "dream Thai."
The second thing I'll say with concern to the spice level: fellow white people, DON'T BE A HERO. More on this later.
Now, on to the actual food...
I met my best friend up here on a business trip to the DC area. My goal was to try a cuisine I had never had before, and once I settled on Lao, we found that this was, well, the only place specifically advertised as Lao. We arrived at 7 P.M. on a Friday and were greeted with only a 45-minute wait. Pretty good for DC on a Friday with no reservation. We passed the time at a cafe just a few doors away (BTW, what's with DC's current obsession with macarons? Those things are EVERYWHERE up there) and received a text when our table was available. Maybe that's par for the course in DC, but I found it impressive, since it allowed us the luxury of escaping the packed, loud bar area of the restaurant.
I had done a little research and already planned to seek out the two Lao staples on the Jungle Menu, Tam Mak Huong Phet Phet, a "very spicy" papaya salad (more on that later) and Laab E'kae, or alligator laab, a minced alligator salad. My friend decided to do a variety of small plates, so we each got a full experience of the menu (well, relatively full--I imagine this is one of the deeper menus you'll find because of its novelty).
First up was one of the seasonal special, Kai Naloke, a deviled egg dish topped with a chili sauce. Right away we both knew we were in for something very different. Let me be clear that I don't generally like deviled eggs, but something about this complex, pungent topping really complemented the egg.
Next came Hu Muu Todd, fried pigs' ears with a Jaew bong-sriracha sauce. Being from the South, I'm no stranger to pig's ears, and I have to say the flavor reminded me of something my grandmother might have made back in the rural mountains of Tennessee (that's saying something--people I've only just met still rave about her food nearly two decades after she passed). I would never have guessed the sauce contained sriracha because of its sweetness. It paired beautiful with the ears.
Third came Sai Oua Luad, described as a spicy pork blood sausage. I'll say this is the least exotic thing we ate, but I mean that in the most positive way: to both myself (of Irish descent) and my friend (native Puerto Rican), this was just plain good blood sausage. Rich, tender, certainly not "spicy" as sausage goes (several heat levels below authentic Andouille, for instance). It's interesting what foods translate across cultures.
Then my food started coming...and things took a bit of a turn. I ordered the Tam Mak Huong Phet Phet. The menu and the staff gives you plenty of warning that it's "extremely spicy." But I am a person who walks into Thai restaurants and orders maximum/authentic spice levels, is liberal with the chili garlic paste in my pho, and generally enjoy a meal that drains my sinuses and leaves the wait staff worried about my safety. I told the server I did not want "spicy for spicy's sake," but I wanted an authentic experience.
This dish, though, was the first restaurant dish that made me tap. The heck. OUT.
The first few bites were a wonderful, fresh, crunchy delight with fantastic flavor. But as I kept eating, the heat kept building. And building. And building. And building. No relief in sight. I ordered a Thai iced tea and the waitress kept my water flowing, but it was still brutal. I very much hope to go back and try the tamer version of the dish, because before the hallucinations started it was wonderful.
My main entree was the aforementioned Laab E'Kae. This dish was nicely spicy, although I couldn't tell where the spice was coming from by the time it arrived (found out when I ate my leftovers). The flavors here complemented the spice well, with the freshness of the "green" elements. I wish I could have enjoyed more of it fresh, but midway through the Tam Mak Huong had me out of commission.
Then came the relief, finally. I didn't catch the name, but it was a dessert soup made from pumpkin and coconut. It was the PERFECT ending because the coconut milk cut straight through the spice and brought me back down to earth. Again, I would have loved to have this to cleanse the palate after the nicely-spicy Laab, but it was still very welcome relief from the Tam Mak Huong.
Overall this was a well-deserved five stars. read more