Mes Amies Frenchies, I had one of the best meals of my life tonight. I really wouldn't have bothered with Italian food in Paris, but this place was literally next door to a pretty unprepossessing place I am staying at in the Quartier Latin, off the beaten path, between Rue Monge and Jussieu.
But their blackboard said they had a pasta with cuttlefish and bottarga, two words that are near and dear to my heart, and, like I said, next door, so what the hell.
OMG. OMG, OMG.
I was only going to get the pasta. But they had an entree special of razor clams. Fine. You only live once. Perfectly steamed. with crumbs that I think were pea pod stem bread crumbs and chopped pistachios. Light,sweet clams, and a topping i was scooping up with their whole grain bread. And even though I had too much to drink this afternoon, I had a glass of their wonderful prosecco.
My next course was the pasta. This was a true benchmark for a seafood lover. Lots of cuttlefish slowly simmered with a very few tomatoes, garlic, evoo.. But they brought a freaking dish of bottarga for me, and, of course, I used all of it. This dish had such a complex, non fishy flavor, but so rich, almost meat like, which all well cooked cephalopods seem to have in common.
I was stuffed. I turned down dessert. The owner had other plans, and knew I had room for a taste of the best tiramisu ever. I guess that French dairy does it. Then they brought me a little digestivo, some limoncello. Are you kidding me? Do you think I'm someone famous? Then they hugged me goodbye. Who are these people making Sicilian, or Palermo food with such love? How does everyone not know about this place?
Run, do not walk, to Terronia, on Rue des Boulangers. They have meat, too, I'm just not a meat eater...I can't believe I walked in here on Saturday night without a rez. Very rustic place, lots of old beams painted white. and people wearing jeans. I'm here for another 12 days, and I will be back. read more