New Sushi Bèi !!!
Searching for late night Sushi dining is near impossible in Gardena-Torrance, the epicenter of the Japanese American community. Sushi Bèi came to the rescue by staying open until 11pm on a Thursday week night.
Sushi Bèi in the same mini mall as Shinsèn Gumi Rāmèn had been around a long time under the leadership of an old school, Shōwa era Sushi chef who created a nostalgic, neighborhood, Shita Machi old town atmosphere. Now, there has been a change in ownership and direction in culinary style as well as retaining Èdomaè Sushi tradition.
Chef Yasuhiko "Yako" from Japan & Justin, his Japanese American partner, have the perfect union in one concentrating on elegant Èdomaè Nigiri Sushi and the other on a more innovative fusion style. Chosing was fun between more traditional Japanese and the new wave menu emphasizing more world cuisine influences.
1) Tiger Rose Tiradito: Tiradito refers to Peruvian cuisine of raw fish in a citrus juice based sauce and is basically Ceviche influenced by Japanese who emigrated to Perú. Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa is the famous Japanese chef introducing this fusion cuisine to the U.S.
Two plush, cloudy, white rose shaped Hiramè/halibut and a lightly steamed, pleasantly fibrous white Tiger shrimp red striped is also formed into a rosebud.
Dressed in a subtle citrus juice gastrique mildly scented with rose water harking back to Persian royal cuisine and buttery, mildly peppery extra virgin olive oil. Slice of lime is cut in a Muki Mono style to create a heart shaped leaf.
Single green Shiso/Japanese basil leaf, Tsuma/shredded Daikon root, chopped green onions are vegetables adding healthful phytochemicals as well as complementary aromatics & textures.
I asked for a bit of Kuki Wasabi/fermented Wasabi stems to add a bit more piquant Umami.
2) Agua Chile Mixto: Mélange of chopped salmon, halibutt, octopus tossed in a citrus, cilantro, greenish dressing. The surface of the seafood is lightly "cooked" by the acidity. Garnish of Jalapeño chile & aguacate slices.
Three fried, thin, crispy won ton pasta substitute for fried discs of Tortilla de Maís that usually accompany Mexican Agua Chiles and are interspersed between the seafood to create a multi-tiered tower. All this is topped with a chiffonade of dried, sweet red chiles.
The cilantro in the dressing adds an undertone of funk that contrasts to the clean, fruity, acidic flavours and ocean kissed Umami of the seafood. Definitely, a more sophisticated, nuanced version.
3) Ika Sōmèn: Juliened squid topped with sweet, oceanic, pudding-like Uni. Also asked for Nèri Umè/purèed, salt pickled plum to spice up the left over squid that wasn't directly flavoured by the Uni.
4) Usu Zukuri/ultra thin cut Sashimi of Hiramè, Kuro Dai/Black Snapper, Shima Aji/striped jack from Japan which was particularly excellent with firm yet pliable, smooth flesh full of meaty, fish Umami. Used a bit of Neri Umè/puréed salted plum instead of Shōyu/soy sauce.
5) Nigiri (nee ghee ree) Sushi:
a) Steamed Tiger shrimp topped with red Tobiko/mini roe & Quail yellow egg yolk.
b) Èngawa: Fatty, fibrous, meaty muscle around the ventral & dorsal fins of Hiramè sprinkled with rare, seasonal Myōga/ginger root flower.
c) Seared Salmon with a dot of Yuzu Koshō which is puréed Yuzu/Japanese citrus & piquant green chile peppers.
d) Saba/mackerel marinated in Japanese rice vinegar with translucent Kombu/kelp on top.
e) Gunkan Sushi of Hotatè/Hokkaidō scallop plushness sprinkled with Ikura/salmon roe.
f) Ōtoro Tèkka Maki: Fatty Maguro/bluefin tuna minced with Takuan/dried, salt cured, sweet Daikon radish. The plushness of the Ōtoro has crunch of the Takuan for textural contrast.
6) Shakè no Namban Zukè: Possibly a Japanese-Portugese fusion dish from 500 years ago. Salmon dusted with Katakuriko starch, fried then marinated in sweet Japanese rice vinegar, onion, lemon. It is a variation of Escabeche. Generous serving considering it was a Tsuki Dashi/chef's offering.
7) Japanese Sweet Egg Omelette is very yellow orange from use of organic, free range Jidori chicken. Firm yet moist & spongy. Good sweet dessert ending to dinner accompanied by Kona Cha green tea.
1-6) Sènshin Junmai Daiginjo Sakè: Delicate, refined Sakè that is rather dry, light, cleansing bitterness that is a great palate cleaner. Pear, lemon notes add fruitiness.
Really enjoyed the international currents that are woven into some of the dishes as well as having more traditional Èdomaè Sushi renditions. Crew here is hospitable, friendly, informal. Be prepared to hear good or often bad singing since the Karaokè Bar is just next door.
5 stars for innovative & classic Japanese cuisine mixed with genial, thoughtful service. read more