Being a fan of the Rinaldo brothers' previous endeavours of T-Dogs and their farmers market table…read morethat bore their surname and slung hero sandwiches and cannoli, I was both glad and a little disappointed when I heard they were opening shop in the recently-cavated TGFE location on Windsor. Glad because these guys deserve their own space to serve kickass food, but disappointed because I no longer lived around the corner. What a tease.
After giving them some time after the initial opening to find their legs, and hoping for the crowds to settle down, my wife and I came by before one of my night shifts, just after they opened for the evening.
The space is very much the same as the old TGFE, but updated with new furnishings and a several new coats of paint. It has the very common black/red/white palette, but here it's different than other spots that do it hyper-modern and chic; here it's much more casual and retro with framed family photos, wood paneling painted white, their classic neon sign, and their very, very red booths.
Snagging one of the vibrant vinyl seats, I eagerly scoped out the broader offerings that I had been hearing a lot about. While not as compact as many modern restaurants' menus, Rinaldo's is still a mere fraction of the made-for-the-masses bulk of East Side Mario's, with a few each of apps, salads, heroes, general Italian mains, and several pizzas on offer. I'd heard lots of great things about their mozza sticks, so those were a lock, and my wife and I decided to get one more app and to share one of their pizzas, which we had heard were a decent size. The spicy cauliflower sounded interesting, and would constitute the vegetable portion of our meal, albeit a deep fried one.
The mozza sticks arrived in quick order, and the cauliflower shortly thereafter. The thick sticks of breaded cheese were definitely heftier than your usual from-frozen pub mozza sticks. Plus the breading had a much better flavour and a sprinkle of parm and parsley rounded them out nicely, because if fried cheese needs a garnish, it's gotta be more cheese. The dipping sauce was dill-tastic and fresh, although I appreciated the stretchy cheese on its own.
Cauliflower is hot right now in food circles, but the spicy cauliflower seemed like a bit of a misnomer, as the only heat seemed to come from a light sprinkling of sliced chiles. That said, the breading was nice and crunchy, and the cauliflower inside was surprisingly smooth and nearly creamy, without being a goopy, vegetal mess. The flavours of the other toppings all worked quite well, with the honey, parsley pesto, and pecorino making for a well-balanced dish (sans spice, anyway).
Our pizza was a bit of a wait, but it was a sight to behold when it arrived. Topped with pepperoni, roasted garlic, mozza, Parmigiano Reggiano, and wonderful blobs of ricotta, it was big on great flavours. So many dishes, both Italian and otherwise, will throw a bunch of cheeses in a dish just to brag that it's a "X Cheese Dish", but here each stood out and played a part.
The cornicione was airy and crispy, although the inner parts of the pie suffered the floppy doom of all thin crust pizzas. It did reheat quite well the next day though; via a frying pan and not the dreaded microwave, naturally.
While not perfectly executed, it was a damned good meal with the structure to be even better with some minor polishing. It's worth the hype - go there and keep this place open until I am able to come back again.
