I haven't checked, but I reckon that the monologue in Neil Perry's head when he was deciding on a theme for Spice Temple went a little something like this: "Oh those Chinese. The beautiful women. The beautiful food. What's not to like? Does Australia have enough of either? Nope -- two holes to fill, and Fusion's my middle name. That reminds me, I need to give Kylie Kwong a call."
Everything about Spice Temple is about as bizarre as the idea of a guy like Neil Perry dabbling in regional Sichuan Chinese cuisine. For starters, there is no traditional entrance. Instead, the door is a massive plasma screen that displays faux curtains, the first giveaway that this "hole in the wall" is really no such thing. You walk down a fire escape to reach a windowless space in the basement. Bring your flashlights, kiddos -- it is insanely difficult to see anything in this joint. I would have called the lighting romantic, but methinks that's a trap. Any man on a date would probably get caught with a leering eye on the headshots of the young, svelte women hanging on the walls -- the only things you really can see -- and be in hot (spicy?) water as a result. This restaurant is dangerous territory, and not because of the spices in the food, which I found on the whole to be relatively mild.
What you quickly realize is that what you're principally paying for are the theatrics - which is where Neil Perry truly excels, I suppose. Ingredients for various dishes are often brought out, explained and/or manipulated at the table. For the fish drowned in dried chili peppers and sichuan peppercorns (leatherjacket on the day I visited), the waiter will scoop out the floating layer of chilis at the table and explain that the best way to eat the delicate fillets is with chopsticks (spoons, which would take up the broth and make each bite too spicy, are eschewed). The three shots (beer, chili oil and soy) in the three shot chicken are, like a culinary science experiment, presented separately in shot glasses (of course) and mixed at a nearby station for diners to see. I could honestly do without the acrobatics, as I feel they distract from, rather than add to, the dining experience -- hence the three star rating -- but for those looking for something different, Spice Temple certainly fits the (hefty) bill. Service is generally good and attentive, though I wish they would offer to replace your bowls (which have a tendency to accumulate the dregs of the oil-soaked food you will invariably eat, as there's little else on the menu) at least once, if not more often than that.
Presentation aside, the food really is quite decent. Having been a number of times, I can say that the best route for groups is the banquet ($75 / person), which allows you to try a number of their dishes. They can adapt the menu for vegetarians and persons with other dietary restrictions, also a plus in my book. I don't eat beef or lamb, and our waiter kindly brought a tasty fried tofu with chestnuts and black fungus in spicy oil as a substitute for me. My favorites to get here are the leatherjacket drowned in heaven-facing chilies (which really isn't that spicy -- it just looks that way -- but does come with velvety, tender fish chunks) ($39), the three shot chicken (it's got sweet and aromatic elements going on) ($38), the steamed chicken salad (think of a classier version of a sesame chicken salad with shredded chicken breast) ($18) and the hot pot of fresh shiitake, oyster, enoki and wild Chinese mushrooms, Yunnan style ($39). The pickled cabbage and radish ($8) and cucumber with smashed garlic ($9) are tasty starters, but nothing you couldn't find in identical form at any ordinary Chinese restaurant in Chinatown. I would pass on the fried squid ($26) with five spice and dark chili paste (the squid was more rubbery than I like and overwhelmed by the dominant cumin) and the prawn wontons ($18), which were overbattered for my liking.
Price comparisons to a legit Chinese restaurant are, because of the added ostentation at Spice Temple, like comparing apples and oranges, and somewhat unfair, so I've not done that in my review. However, I will say that I probably wouldn't come back unless someone else was paying. It's good food, but give me an old auntie making dumplings by hand in the back over the high-class machinations of a chef suffering from apparent yellow fever any day. read more