I'm another old-timer who loved the old Pasteur on Sheridan and Lawrence. That was many a Chicagoan's first love when it came to charming hole in the wall ethnic jewels. Anyway that place burned and tuan reopened a much more elegant french-viet bistro in edgewater. (I know, what was he thinking.) So that closed a while ago, and we just clued in that he's back. This incarnation is at neither extreme but treads a nice middle ground, offering good value in an attractive setting. We enjoyed an early dinner on a sunny end of summer evening.
I can vouch for these dishes:
1. Grilled lemongrass beef appetizer. You get a big platter, from which you arrange sliced cukes, cilantro, noodles, greens and the beef slices into a rice paper wrapper and roll it up. Pour some vinegary dipping sauce onto that and try to retain some dignity as you stuff that fatty into your face. Damn I'm salivating again. At old Pasteur you actually grilled the meat at your own table on this cute little fire hazard of a gas grill, it was beyond awesome.
2. Shrimp Papaya Salad. It's a nice flavor combo. Dozen or so medium shrimps over a mound of shredded papaya. Nice non-greasy appetizer, tasty little nosh split four ways.
3. Clay pot chicken. Chicken in a ginger sauce prepared in a clay pot. At old Pasteur this dish was catfish and the clay pots were shaped more vertically and had this interesting patina that assured you the flavors intensified every time they made it. Nice reveal at the table when you lifted the lid and got a hit of steam. If memory serves, I think it was wrapped in bamboo leaves and was still bubbling! So damn amazing. Even if I'm romanticizing it. Anyway it's great to enjoy that flavor again but it's not quite like it used to be. I'll be ok.
4. Roasted duck curry. The duck pieces are thick and meaty, tender and flavorful. The curry sauce was very mild. The eggplant could have had more texture so I'd say it was overcooked but the yellow and green pepper pieces were crisp and bite-sized. Nice yam bits in there, picked over the onions. I'd have to say the duck carries this dish and it rocks, but next visit I'll try the Bamboo roasted Duck, which I'm guessing has some more intense flavors.
A few more reasons to visit:
They keep the lemonade refills coming! They make it fresh and there's some lime in it, and a lime slice. Very tasty. My kids were sucking it down like baby hummingbirds. I'm guessing the ginger tea is great too, didn't try it yet.
Complimentary fresh fruit slice dessert. Mango, watermelon, honeydew, strawberries.
$6.95 lunch special! I'm def coming back for that.
Service was good, food arrived in a timely fashion, nice looking room, total stunna waitress. Some tables are a little cramped so pick a comfy one so you can order lots of dishes. Our kids and the next table over's loved the food but I don't think you'll see lots of families with children here.
Um. . . four stars for petty reasons. Parking's a drag, I don't like the name of the place or the location, and it's not exactly pushing the envelope. But he tried that previously, and the art was a success but the financials evidently were not, so maybe they're playing it a little more conservatively this time out.
Recap, great lunch value on delicious food, and a fine supper date destination near LP entertainment.
*edit:
I just learned there is another Tuan sequel on Devon called "Viet Bistro." read more