There are reasons I know I'm getting old, aside from the fact that the birthdays just keep crashing…read morein likes waves. One is my failing sight after years of relying on my eyes and my eyes alone to read. Another perhaps less common garden variety is the internal meltdown I face when confronted with a lot of menu choice in restaurants.
If you identify with the latter, you may wish to save yourself a lot of hassle and simply choose the set menu here. If not, be warned, the a la carte alternative is complex, and for your own sake don't arrive tired or emotional. This is a prime mental condition eating experience.
Famed Dublin restauranteur Dylan McGrath is an ideas man. His restaurants are as much about concept as they are about food, and though I'm sure there's a big heart in there, the head rules.
If you want proof, study the menu. Across the top are taste categories (bitter, salty, sweet, etc.). Down the left are dish categories. So you scale down, then across, to see what combination of taste and texture your dish offers. And there are lots of choices. And a huge variety of prices. But what's less clear is quantity. And I was hungry and wanted to know I'd get an oul dinner into me before that difficult hungry phase that reduces my brain to mush and makes me want to howl like a baby.
The very friendly waitress reassured us that though the menu seems complex first time round, after you've done it once, it's a breeze. (That's how I cottoned on to the fact that the wait staff here have post docs in maths.)
Full marks for trying though. No less than two members of staff talked us through things, and they really did their best - did I sense concern that people are having difficulty getting it? Whichever - in the end, it was all too much for me - cue set menu.
So, to my relief, for forty euros, you can certainly expect to leave full, with sushi starters - ok, it's not called sushi, it's the long one with the piece of fish on top of the rice (though more wasabi, please) -,delicious miso with clams and those delicate long-stemmed mushrooms that definitely have a name, beef skewers with rice (too much rice already) and potato main, and desert.
The food presentation is beautiful, served on marble slabs and in delicate ceramics, with a Japanese-influenced simplicity. I thought the restaurant was Japanese from the menu but see from the website there are Spanish and South American influences too - not very obvious to me but then again I flunked the menu test.
The sushi that isn't sushi was yummy, especially the turbot which was a smoky hit of flavour, and the sea bass, with a smooth texture that melts on the tongue.
The beef is served on a mini-BBQ which, like the mushrooms, has a proper name. (The only problem with this method of on-table serving is being smoked out of it by the table next door who's got too much fuel on the fire.) If you want your steak more than medium rare, just cook on. My steak was a slightly mixed experience being a bit fatty, though my partner didn't have the same issue.
Desert was ginger panna cotta, with melon granita, which was light yet intense in flavour and delicious.
We had tried to book Rustic Stone, the restaurant downstairs, but it was full and they suggested we try Taste. We didn't know it was Japanese-influenced and I think they took this on board upon seeing our menu-bafflement and offered a glass of wine on the house. Fair enough.
If I returned I'd be armed with a more rested brain (like I'd give it a full day off beforehand, take it to the pictures, buy it flowers, tell it it was looking great) and I would square right up to that a la carte menu, look it in the eye and plainly demand to know its tofu options, the brute, and I wouldn't take no for an answer.
The Japanese are masters of simplicity, so ultimately I agree if for different reasons that Taste is not a Japanese restaurant. But the food largely made up for it, the service was good, it's a relaxing place to eat, and if the head wins over the heart, there's no denying it's a decent head. If you don't believe me, just look in the window where its image hangs pride of place, presumably so you know who best to talk to if you need anything explained.
