At the Chef's Table they pull out all the stops at this little gem near downtown McAllen. The staff and kitchen really have bought into the restaurant's theme of high quality, locally sourced fresh ingredients. A "Salt" of the earth place with just enough fancy to make the ambience interesting without being intimidating. Everything in the place looks like a lot of thought went into it and tying it back to their ethos.
I will put in a plug early for the Chef's Table if you are interested in a dining experience. You'll get to see the kitchen in action, and get lots of interactivity with the people making the magic happen. Also, you'll get to sample lots of tastes off the menu, and no doubt a few of them will bring a big smile to your face.
I started off with a cocktail called The Lavender. It's a gin-based cocktail with Bombay Sapphire Gin, St. Germain, lavender syrup, orange, lemon and some sugar and salt. It was simply delicious, and the alcohol didn't overpower. A very refreshing cocktail with a burst of flavor that teases you between the sweet and salty - both there but neither too assertive.
Looking to the menu I was surprised to see that the kitchen has really challenged itself. I guess I was surprised because this is McAllen, and I like McAllen, but I wasn't necessarily expecting this kind of sophistication. Take the Poke for example, a starter that the chefs just dropped off for me to try. It's ahi tuna, watermelon, beets, jalapeño ponzu with an avocado/wasabi mousse on a house made friend wonton. Oh, and there's something else yummy drizzled on top that I didn't identify. And it all pulled together into the kind of flavor that is both familiar and wonderfully new. I wanted to eat seven of them.
Along with the Poke, they also brought me by some tasty house made chips with a gorgonzola sauce, a chicken ravioli with a tomato curry cream sauce, and a sample of the jalapeño infused mashed potatoes. All of these tastes were original and delicious. They weren't all flavors you would necessarily expect to encounter in the same bite, but the kitchen here has done the hard work to make sure the balance is right.
For my meal I had an appetizer of quail. It's fried quail on a creamy asiago polenta and with a pomegranate gastrique. The appetizer held its own and the creamy polenta was a nice compliment to the fried quail. I followed the quail with a grilled pear salad. The salad features the grilled pear on a bed of spinach and frisee, with candied kalamata olives, almond slices and goat cheese with a mint vinaigrette. I like the fact that the salad didn't run away from the slightly bitter/peppery quality of the frisee, but instead accented it nicely with the tangy goat cheese. It's a personal peeve of mine when salads with mildly bitter greens drown them with sweetness, and this salad respected my sensitivity on the subject. The grilled pear was just the right sweetness without overpowering the palate.
For my entree I enjoyed the Magret de Canard, which is a honey spice infused breast over roasted vegetables and bacon, with a grapefruit balsamic. The dish also pulled a lot of flavor together in a way that complemented the duck without drowning it. The fat was nicely rendered, the meat was moist and cooked perfectly. I really enjoyed this, but honestly wish I'd had the room to try the pork shank with habanero salsa and mole verde. Next time!
Overall, until someone proves me wrong, this place has my vote for the best dining experience in the Rio Grande Valley. It's always impressive to visit a place where they are not only trying hard to cook good food, but where they are also challenging themselves to delight you with new and creative offerings. Salt hits the target here, and honestly McAllen, Texas was the last place I expected to enjoy a dining experience like this. Don't miss it.
Special thanks to the chefs that made the evening more enjoyable! Greg, the grill supervisor, Auggie, kitchen supervisor, Danny on salads and Javie on fry were gregarious, knowledgeable, and are doing a great job in that kitchen! Well done, gents. read more