A NOLA-Based friend recommended Safta, from Alon Shaya. "Safta" is "Grandmother" in Hebrew, and this is your grandmother's restaurant...if your grandmother wears Chanel No. 5 and listens to Trip-Hop.
I WILL return, for three reasons. First, the food. See below. Who doesn't like good food and cocktails?
Second...per Mr. Shaya, "Israeli Food" means a lot. Israel, like the USA, has a large immigrant population - not just the Levant, but Russia, Central Europe, Mexico, Ethiopia, even the USA. With so many climates and food traditions...I'm excited to anticipate how the menu will change with the seasons. There is a LOT to love about New Orleans...but "Seasons" isn't one of them. There's "Summer," "Still Summer," "Football Season," and "Mardi Gras." I'm sure Israeli food in the Russian tradition works with Denver winters.
Finally, Mr. Shaya's new venture comes from parting ways with John Besh. The less said about Mr. Besh, the better...but suffice to say Mr. Shaya wants to create a more humane restaurant environment. This puts him at the intersection of multiple trends; including Denver's boom which has made capable service people hard to find. I asked each person (probably half a dozen in total), and they really enjoy working with Mr. Shaya, who prioritizes staff development. This is your benefit as a diner: You'll feel, as we did, like you're having a meal with your friends. You really can tell if people are happy. Shout out to Callie, from Chicago. She's the one with the dreds. Ask to be seated in her section! Trade hiking stories, and Denver insider tips with her. See also the "Dining with Friends" comment.
Soooo...food time. What's food without cocktails? The first round was a Negev (Tequila, Violet Liqueur, pomegranate, and "Baharat," a mix of spices similar to Moroccan Ras Al-Hanaout.) Do ask for your drink to be served with a rock of ice (one cube, 1.5" on a side) instead of cubes...the drink may get thin if not); and a "Milk of the Poppy" (vodka, labneh [yogurt with water removed. Think Mediterranean clotted cream], yerba mate, peach, rose syrup). Both were good, but when my date tasted the Negev, her eyes lit up. I gave her my drink (she's prettyand blonde...don't judge....). Which led to Round #2, "Shadow of the Equinox," mezcal, smoked Turkish peppers, grapefruit. They hadn't infused the Turkish pepper (which is like Hungarian smoked paprika or Mexican chipotles)...and the one they served me had cardamom syrup. Cardamom is smoky....and went well with the smoky Mezcal. Editorial comment - remember that thing about the Jewish Diaspora? Hooray for Emperor Titus...1,950 years later, I get a good meal....
Apps...DO get the small plates. We did 3 for $21; more would have been better. Bring friends. We had the:
Watermelon and Bulgarian Feta. Oh. My. God. If you've only tried watermelon as a sweet, trust me on this.....The caramelized Walnuts and creamy, savory feta are good..but the cumin-infused olive oil is what makes this special. In the Western culinary tradition, we know cucumber as savory...but the watermelon works.
Labneh...I thought this was a cheese...but it's a creamy, savory thickened yogurt. It's really good on the abundant Pita bread.
Sidebar on the Pita....to me Pita has always been a tough, flavorless tortilla that you tolerate because of the Falafel and the Raita. Trust me...the love child of Naan and focaccia? Yep, it's that. Did I mention "Wood Fired"? They will bring you Pitas until you tap out.
Lutenitsa....even if you hate Eggplant.. you'll never know it is there. You'll notice the red peppers, the sweetness, and the richness of the olive oil. And the Umami that only eggplant brings....
Mains:
Crispy Eggplant - the menu lists this as with "tomato and goat cheese" which is technically correct...but seriously.. a Rolls Royce is "a car," right? I don't know how they did this, but the eggplant is amazingly creamy, and not bitter at all. The goat cheese is strongly thyme-scented, which works well with the tanginess of the chevre.
Shakshouka - yes, the hangover cure. Eggs poached in a spicy tomato bell pepper sauce, with Jerusalem artichokes (kind of potato, but not starchy).
Dessert:
Halveh - Fudge, but made with nuts instead of chocolate. It has cardamom whipped cream; and grilled peaches. Constructive idea - more smoke flavor on the peaches would have been fine.
Malabi = Panna Cotta. Strawberry syrup and pistachios. This would have been insane with pinenuts (nod to New Mexico) and berries or stone fruits.
Regrets:
Wish I'd had room for the falafel; cabbage salad, roasted and scorched cauliflower (which I saw go by the table. Thought about bribing the server for a bite), Persian Rice (with the crispy crust) , and Cabbage Salad (Callie told me it was a lot of wonderful textures, and lighter). I'd love to try the carrot salad. I should have had French Press with dessert.
I'll be back. You should, too. read more