Rustica describes its fare as peasant food from Italy, France, and Spain.
From the wintry windy alley-like streets in downtown Kzoo, enter a warmly lit room, narrow, with an open kitchen and highly attentive servers. The place is crowded and lively.
You are whisked to your table as if an old treasured friend. I went last night with five others which is a perfect set up for tasting many dishes and being able to give good review (usually I like to go somewhere three or four times before I'll write about it).
Upon seating, a hand appears from nowhere and pours my wine glass with some excellent Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley. I sip and peruse the wine list, which is fantastic. I could live in the wine cellar and know that on any given day, I had at my fingertips some of the most carefully curated picks from small scale producers worldwide. Only several Michigan wines, however, from the Old Mission Peninsula (near Traverse City - you should go. Rustica supports the Bowers Harbor (www.bowersharbor.com) winery and offers Riesling "Semi-Dry" and Pinot Noir "Dijon".
A group of six can safely order the entire suite of "Firsts" and I think ours came close. We had the Antipasti: a selection of house made pickles (think pickled parsnips, cauliflower, celery) with grilled veg, Nicoise olives, nuts, and some fig confit.
Of all the "Firsts" if you try nothing else, please do yourself the favor and the gift of trying the Maple Leaf Farms Duck Confit. Crispy on the outside, tender inside, with the fragrance of fennel infused, it's served with some unnecessary gold potato hash and apple-celery chutney. Give me the duck and I will quake (not quack) with pleasure.
Cauliflower gratin with amish cheddar is total comfort food and line-caught Yellowfin crudo with winter citrus and arugula blends umami, sweet, spicy in a balanced way.
I wasn't crazy about the Prince Edward Island Mussels. But that may be a symptom of going deep into the duck and antipasti.
Moving along, Rustica offers the usual roasted beet, arugula, goat cheese salad and a grilled romaine salad with anchovies and caesar dressing. I tasted both and greatly prefer the latter. The flavor profile was savory, smoky, slightly sweet, and the texture was barely charred but enough to add to the crunch and satisfy.
Rustica offers house-made pasta and a selection of grains. The winter mushroom farrotto with porcini, morel, oyster, and crimini mushrooms was applauded by those who tried it. But the Bucatini pasta alla Carbonara (a dish part of my regular repertoire - some of the best comfort food) was declared the winner of the pasta/grain category. House cured pancetta, farm eggs from Otto's poultry, and a nice balance of parmesan and black pepper combined nicely and I think if possible to do it without clients present, that bowl would have been licked clean.
Mains chosen by our group included market fish in parchment. I believe it was mahi mahi and was considered light and well prepared. I am on a steak kick lately and ordered the grilled hanger steak with mashed cauliflower, crispy shallots and roasted garlic jus. Delicious, perfectly prepared medium-rare and enough to share or take home to hungry homebeasts.
Kenya AA Coffee from local Water St. Coffee Joint is served in press pots and clearly Rustica knows from coffee--low acid, solid body, smooth winey taste and notes of fragrant florals. They surely paid attention to the water temp and used fresh beans.
Stuffed but intrigued by the dessert menu, we all sampled the Michigan Apple Crisp and the Lemon Polenta Cake. Go for the latter. It is made with almonds, vicksburg honey, and whipped cream. Can anything be wrong with fresh whipped cream? I think not. A special lagniappe was a dish of Palazzolo artisan mango sorbeto. It cleared the palate and concluded the feast.
Rustica's chef, Adam Watts, comes from Boulder's The Kitchen (which explains a lot about the menu and the exquisite touches and quality). Eric, our server, was attentive and observant. He noted one of our group's nut allergies and prepared her a separate version of the antipasti that didn't have nuts.
All in all, five stars for ambiance, taste, wine list, service, quality and execution. If this is peasant food, I want everyone to become a peasant. The fare here satisfies on a deep soul level. Enjoy! read more