Summary: Would leave 0 stars if I could. Don't go here. Rules has an incredibly racist and elitist atmosphere, and the food isn't anywhere near the quality to make up for it.
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The oldest restaurant in London reeks with the same old attitudes of racism, classism, and elitism during its founding time of 1798. Unless there's drastic change to address the exclusionary nature of this restaurant, if you're young, not white, and want to enjoy traditional British cuisine, I would recommend taking your business elsewhere. Hopefully the current, and I directly quote from the website, "rakes, dandies and superior intelligence's who comprise its clientele" keeping the restaurant in business dies off soon.
I made a reservation at 6pm from Bon Appetit's recommendation. I was very excited to share the rib of beef for two with my partner, and introduce my parents to the restaurant's history. My mother is a Chinese historical fiction writer and my father an avid photographer, so I thought it was a match made in heaven.
We had come in after a fun, long day at the ZSL London Zoo, and had forgotten about the no-shorts policy stated in our email reservation. London has been unnaturally warm these past few days, and as Yankees who are used to cold drinks and air-conditioning on hot summer days, we weren't exactly focused on wearing trousers for the whole day.
When we arrived at the restaurant, the doorman immediately looked my boyfriend up and down and crisply said that they have a strict no-shorts policy. My partner immediately felt humiliated and meekly told me that he would be fine going back to our hotel to change. I stood my ground, and luckily the doorman's colleague informed us that they had a spare set of trousers on hand.
My boyfriend is 6'0, and the first pair of trousers that he got didn't fit him. I had to ask again for a second set. The most insulting situation was, after that entire ordeal, once he sat at the table, his legs were covered by the floor length white table cloth. Having grown up in a British International environment, I'm not new to strict dress codes, which is already rooted in classism, but if you are trying to cultivate a standardized type of clientele aesthetic, at least have a purpose to the madness. For example, London's J-Sheekey has a no-shorts policy as well, but at the very least, they have outside seating and mid-length table cloth.
Our order
Drinks
- A bottle of Domaine Rossignol-Fevrier Bourgogne Pinot Noir - £49.00
- Draught Guiness - £6.25
Comments: The wine was mediocre; looking it up, the average price is usually £17, so this was my bad for not doing more research. However, take the almost x3 markup however you'd like.
Starters
- Oysters: two each of Jersey Rock, Morecambe Bay, and Ostra Regal. - £18.50 total
- Dorset Crab Salad - £17.95
Comments: Starters were fresh enough. However, the plates were very much unceremoniously dumped onto our table with very little explanation. As well as this, when we were ordering and inquired further about the differences between the oysters (e.g. size, flavor), she told us that there was little difference between them, besides the Jersey Rock, which would be saltier. Probably one of the saddest and least detailed explanations of oysters I've ever heard. Rules proudly states, "as we are confronted with so much mediocrity... when everyone is deluged with homogeneous brands, we like to create the special." Not sure if the definition of special has changed to inadequate, but it seems Rules believes so.
Mains
- Roast Squab Pigeon - £29.95
- Rib of Beef for Two - £35.95
Comments: Mains were also fine. Yorkshire pudding was underseasoned in its bake. Meat was also underseasoned, but we were provided rock salt, pepper, gravy, and horseradish sauce. I've never been a fan of having to season my own food with salt and pepper, preferring the chef to do it for me, but I do understand that some do prefer that. To be honest, I've had better Yorkshire pudding in America at House of Prime Rib, which is concerning. Cut of meat was lackluster.
Since there was a 2 hour limit for our reservation, and we finished our courses with 15 minutes to spare, we were strongly discouraged from ordering dessert, which added even more unpleasantness. However, at this point, we were just ready to leave.
I usually don't write long, arduous reviews for restaurants, especially negative ones. But this has by far been one of the most disappointing restaurants I've ever been to. There's a reason why, even after over two centuries of operations, Rules still has yet to have a single Michelin star. Before I came to the restaurant, I believed the prestigious history of past diners' would be reflected in the quality of service and food. Now I feel their attendance can be explained away to not having a better option back then.
But hey, there's better now elsewhere. The uptight Rules need to be left behind. read more