Established in 1798, Rules has served traditional English fayre for over 200 years. This warm and inviting restaurant sits snuggly in a back street of London's Covent Garden. The red banquettes and varnished wood detail are complemented by a wealth of treasures adourning the walls of the intimate dining area.
From Vanity Fair prints (I had the honour of being seated next to the Prince of Monaco) and exquisite portraits to a collection of game bird prints and mounted antlers. You are transported to a world of English tradition: a mixture of hunting, shooting and fishing, the elegance of the country manor and warm caring atmosphere of the family dining room.
In this age of always online connectivity, Rules' no mobile phone policy helps to ensure a relaxed and uninterrupted meal. Even I, a self-diagnosed text junkie, appreciated a break from the constant barrage of beeping, buzzing and vibrating. There is no dress code, however, I would advise a minimum of smart casual. You run the risk of feeling slightly out of place if you arrive in your shorts, t-shirt and flip-flops.
I had the pleasure of visiting during the Christmas season. The glistening decorations only added to the snug homely feel. Rules is one of the most flexible and accommodating restaurants around. Perfect for a family meal (well behaved children only please) or a sophisticated get together with some friends. I dined alone (I do have friends but I had left it rather last minute to find a lunch partner). So many restaurants can make lone diners feel very awkward. But not so here. My single table was tucked away but not hidden. Above my seat was a magazine rack with an assortment of today's papers, providing a welcome change from staring as the table cloth (normally I would send a few text messages, but see above for mobile phone policy!)
The staff at Rules are helpful and polite and are not over-bearing. I find it extremely annoying to be asked every five minutes whether everything is ok or whether I need anything else. But the waiters provided a well-balanced service, impeccably turned out in traditional uniforms.
The menu is bursting with country favourites and nursery classics. The food is kept simple, but the use of fresh, high quality produce makes a very noticeable difference to the taste. I am a very keen proponent of fresh ingredients, locally sourced and packed full of flavour, as opposed to tasteless supermarket pap. And so it seems are Rules. Rules owns The Lartington Estate, Teesdale in the High Pennines, which produces an array of high quality game and meat, which is used in the restaurant.
I started my lunch with the Potted Shrimp. This classic of the Afternoon Tea arrived presented with a small salad garnish and some toast. The shrimp was well seasoned, with a peppery after taste, but without overpowering the flavours of the sea. Although the portion looked small - it was just enough to whet my appetite.
The main course consisted of roast partridge, with bacon, brussel sprouts and chestnuts. The golden bird arrived in a small copper roasting dish, surrounded by vibrant buttery sprouts and crumbly chestnuts. The partridge was still juicy and succulent and was complimented by its sweet, but not sickly, jus. Presentation is as important element of the eating experience. I was delighted to see the couple at the table in front of me being served their soup at the table from a small silver soup dish, as opposed to arriving ready-plated. These little touches may seem eccentric, but somehow make you appreciate the food more.
I finished my lunch with my good friend the apple crumble. Baked and served in an individual ramekin, it provided a substantial portion of my favourite dessert. The Bramleys had a lemony hint to them and were slightly too tart for me (I have a very sweet tooth). The crumble was excellent and was fairly thick (my favourite part of this pudding really - the thicker the better!). The icing sugar garnish would have been better replaced with caster sugar (slightly caramelised).
Each course was separated by a comfortable break. At no time did I feel rushed or pressured to give up my table. And after a sumptuous lunch I didn't feel too full or bloated.
Traditional, succulent and well-balanced - Dining at Rules is like being at a friend's house for lunch.
PS: Rules also do a beef roast with all the trimmings, but this is for a minimum of two persons. read more