Now, I'm starting (OK, well starting is probably a poor word) to sound like a whinger. And I am not just talking about the review that follows, but I've noticed a trend of contrary reviews. That's ok, I try to keep myself unbiased as best I can, and to that regard, I award 4 stars, a drop from 5.
*audible gasp from the audience*
There are reasons, oh yes there is, and I still regard MG as some sort of culinary god. But, it's a new menu, and I think it needs to get of it's training wheels. Flavours-wise don't feel quite together yet. Presentation, as always, flawless. Service struggled with a table of 18, but was pleasant throughout, but time between courses was quite long, but I put that down to the sheer effort in presentation, however glasses were rarely empty (although my other half did observe as he didn't drink wine, he wasn't offered anything else to drink bar water). I came away with the same satisfied feeling as before and did have a fabulous evening, but perhaps with less wow involved.
So apart from time, the amuse bouche - celeriac (yum) and the flavour in the espuma packed a punch, but not quite sure red amaranth and a very surprisingly solid hazelnut matched in either flavour or texture.
Starter: crab cannelloni and smoked cauliflower custard. Presentation was... just .... awesome. An inspirational dish. But... it was so cold there were ice crystals inside the cannelloni (which with the spinach butter acting as the pasta, it made sense to be so cold) which I didn't particularly enjoy. The display of releasing the applewood smoke and the flavours in the smoked cauliflower custard was fantastic and surpassed the cannelloni itself.
For my main, I went for the hake. I will note, which I hadn't noticed on my previous visit, that there is a major lack of vegetarian meals - starter, yes, but not main course, which I do find curious. In that manner, I am of course, biased. The hake was beautifully cooked, and I do recommend that the broth is added, it was delicious. The purple potato mash was the best item on the plate (with a nod to Bodger and Badger, I do love me some mashed potato) - the flavour in the potato were beautifully captured. I did notice that mashed potato was a popular theme in the dishes around me as well. Again, I am mesmerised by the detail in the dish in front of me.
Finally, as I couldn't really say no (similar to last time really) to desert and this time, went for the broken lemon tart. That was a fun looking dish! It reminded my (looks-wise, not flavour) of Bassetts Liquorice Allsorts. The lemon tart pieces were fab, and shortbread base, packed full of buttery goodness. I *think* there was a lemon ice cream - that didn't really stand out for me, flavours were too close to the tart to be discernible - and coconut jelly, which to be honest, had attracted me to the dish in the first place - but it was utterly lacking in flavour - definitely felt like a dud. A week on though, the sharpness of the lemon tart sticks more in my mind. And I am not thinking about the fact I ate jelly for the first time in a long time (veggie no no, I am a bad girl as i didn't check for gelatine).
Anyway, overall, if you went to MG for a beautifully presented meal, which is executed flawlessly, you won't be sorry. And I suspect, that if I returned in a few months time, or longer, that the meal I had tonight will have changed and improved. New babies need to learn to crawl, and this menu is no different. read more