Hosteria Grappolo d'Oro is both a Michelin Bib Gourmand pick and an Eater Rome favorite. I made a…read moredinner reservation online a few days ahead of our trip and was lucky to get a 9:00 table. We're middle-aged American parents so that's very late for us, but it was the earliest time slot available.
The restaurant was lovely, charming and homey, the kind of place you want to eat at when in Rome, or anywhere else, really. Service was excellent. We had a young, friendly waiter who spoke fluent English and projected hyper-competence. We ordered the wine he suggested, a bottle of 2024 Colle Ticchio Cesanese del Piglio, and it was both tasty and reasonably priced.
The food was downright cheap, with a €36 prix fixe that included appetizers, pasta, main course, and dessert. It was mostly good, too, beginning with a bread basket and the trio of traditional starters, which all came with the prix fixe. There was a panzanella spread made with bread, tomato, extra virgin olive oil, and garlic; baccalà mantecato con peperone crusco, a cod fish mousse with sliced crischi pepper; and polpetta di bollito con salsa verde, or boiled beef meatball, which was more appetizing than it sounds.
We had a choice of three typical Roman pastas for our next course, and I went with the spaghetti alla carbonara. It was delicious, the definite high point of my dinner, the spaghetti cooked a pleasing al dente, with egg sauce, bacon guanciale, and pecorino cheese. My husband's rigatoni all'Amatriciana was deeply satisfying, too, with tomato sauce, guanciale, and pecorino.
To my surprise, the entrées were both flops. I got the baccalà alla Romana, cod fish in tomato sauce with raisins, olives, and pine nuts. It was actively bad, rubbery and hard to eat. My husband's agnello alla Romana was slightly better, a dish of oven-roasted lamb served with potatoes. I still didn't like it, though. It looked and tasted like something that might have been eaten 500 years ago, gamey and rustic. Maybe too traditionally Roman for my palate.
The dessert was terrific, homemade ricotta cheese mousse finished with candied orange zest and a syrupy wine reduction. Light and not too sweet.
We had a great time at Grappolo d'Oro. It felt, for the most part, like a 5-star restaurant, and I'd recommend it despite the 2-star entrées. The €36 prix fixe is a tempting deal, but I think the move here is to skip the secondi and fill up with pasta and wine.