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Considering the "15 days in advance at 8:00AM local time" reservation policy, twenty-seats, and one service per four (or sometimes five) nights of the week my dinner on Tuesday evening had everything to do with a fantastic local contact and a bit of luck in the form of a day-of cancellation - located above the bustling Hôtel Thoumieux I'd say it is fair to call Jean-François Piège the toughest ticket in town. Well aware of the nearly instantaneous awarding of 2 Michelin Stars to the tiny jewel box and having heard from a number of people that Piège's cutting edge cuisine had perhaps been held back during his most recent stint at Les Ambassadeurs I must admit that the eponymous locale this was in my top four "must visits" for the trip and as such both my expectations and excitement were high walking in the door...a door that I walked by twice without even noticing it was there.
With the room now half full and soon to be at capacity I was next presented with the menu and a description of how it works - essentially a list of six ingredients sourced from local markets from which the diner selects one, two, or three at a cost of 70/90/115€ respectively (or 165€ with wine pairings.) With my three ingredients selected I was next asked about allergies and after declining any such issues I opted for the 7€ water service and things began rather quickly. Regarding service - it was succinct, helpful, and professional but rather lacking in personality or smiles even when compared to more "serious" spots such as Rostang, Ledoyen, or Le Pré Catelan - a peculiarity to me considering the whimsical nature of the room, platings, and music choices.
The first flavors to arrive would be presented on a sort of rotating flower. Flavor and fun with items described as Creamy Cod Fritter, Chorizo Pizza, Salmon Belly and Avocado Macaroon with Red Onion, Ham and Cornichons with Lemon and Mustard, plus Rutabaga Chips and Dip I really enjoyed each but most of all the spicy deconstructed pizza puff and creamy fritter with hints of sage.
The first course of the evening would be "Turbot Sauvage," and a large portion of it at that. With the subtle and meaty fish poached in butter and served over a bed of English peas, Lima beans, zucchini, and asparagus it was the sauce that truly stood out - a combination of the pan jus, pork prosciutto, and black truffles - and brought all the flavors together. While not as pure as my previous Parisian experience with Turbot and not as playful as Piège's other options for the evening I couldn't have asked for a better opening volley.
Course two, "Pigeonneau de Nid" was even more substantial than the fish that preceded it in both portion and flavor and overall ranks as one of the top ten plates I enjoyed in Paris. With both breast and leg seared golden on the exterior and red within the already exemplary bird was brought to the next level by a pair of stuffings - the first a textural puree of black olive and brioche and the second a creamy terrine of foie gras. Not to be outdone, the pigeon's partner on this particular plating was a galette of pommes puree and a crispy potato chip topped with micro-greens that went very nicely with the reduction of port and game jus poured tableside.
For my third selection of the meal I was pleased to see the chef had saved the best for last - "Ris Veau de Lait." Seated next to a "cheese stick" comprised of crystal rice and comte and topped with comte-crisps and earthy morels the milk calf thymus - lightly seared, sweet, and creamy - was one of the largest I've ever seen and by far and away the best prepared. With both the cheese and the offal delightful I was additionally pleased by yet another inspired offering from the saucier - a pool of morel beurre blanc sauce abutted by vegetal spinach puree that mellowed the otherwise weighty flavors.
With the time now approaching 10:30pm and coffee declined it should be noted that when desserts did arrive it was quite the display - a Gagnaire-esque presentation of five selections with each quite sizable and ornately plated. Amongst the less memorable options were a spicy Bergamot Pot du crème, a selection of Pineapples, Bananas, and Papaya with Lemongrass, and Fresh Strawberries with Chantilly Cream and Mint. Fairing better would be a collection of bite sized Pomegranate Beignets served in a porcelain black dove - sweet yet tart, lightly fried - while the star of the desserts was a "free form" vanilla soufflé filled with buttery vanilla bean egg cream and topped with a crispy honey tuille.
All in all I think Jean-François Piège fits a unique niche in the Parisian dining scene and in that single evening he served me two of the ten best things I've eaten thus far in 2011 but without improving the service I simply do not see people continuing to deal with the impossible reservation system no matter how good the food or Michelin ranking.