The menu in the restaurant, handed to us by an English-speaking waiter, looked nothing like the one we had seen online. (The waiter confirmed it changes every 2 to 3 months to take advantage of seasonal ingredients and allow the chef ample room for creativity.) It was filled with fresh fish, octopus, duck, ceviche, tar tar, bone marrow and other ultra-fancy foodie-loved dishes. Having eaten our fill of steak and cheese the night before, we were looking for something a little lighter and greener. So we focused on starters, salads, and chicken. We ordered a mushroom tostada, grilled greens soft tacos, guacamole, and the arugula salad. Although the sous-vide chicken on the menu came with different sides, we really wanted to try the huitlacoche risotto (made with a local course textured corn), and the waiter was very flexible about a little mixing and matching, so that we could have both. While we waited, the waiter presented us with some crispy tostones, which looked and tasted like they had been cooked on a flaming grill. A little pot of yellow sauce accompanied them and, as we tasted a dab to measure the heat, we broke into a grin. This sauce was smooth as silk, and the flavor was so well rounded - sweet and mildly spicy (less spicy than a jalapeno), but there were other flavors that I cannot hope to describe. I can't think of anything to compare it to. It was so delicious. From that one mouthful on, there was no doubt the meal was going to be exceptional. Dish after dish, we smiled and purred and cooed and laughed at how incredibly delightful, surprising, innovative, and balanced every dish was.
The unexpected amuse bouche, 3 little balls of sour cheese fried in a light tempura type batter and set on a little dollop of exceptional sauce was presented so beautifully and looked to appetizing that we completely forgot to photograph it, gobbling it down in one delicious bite. The sauce was so delicious that I scraped at the plate, trying to get every little bit of the bright, sweet, and complex sauce. Again, I couldn't even begin to imagine what was in it, but my kingdom for the recipe!
The baby arugula salad paired the peppery greens with a bright lemon vinaigrette. But it was not just arugula - there were a mixture of delicious baby leaves that I was not familiar with, which tasted so good it made me wish I grew a garden. And on top of the pile of implausibly tasty greens was a lacey crunchy green confection to add salt and crunch to the mix. It was a dynamite salad. The delicious mushroom tostada and grilled greens tacos were a delight to the senses with at least a dozen colorful ingredients in each and felt completely guilt free. But finally the piece de resistance -- the sous vide chicken. I am not a chef and do not know how the chef prepared this wonder of wonders, but this is how I imagine it happened. De-bone a whole chicken. Take a piece of the breast and leg (and who knows what other good bits), wrap it together in a ball, and sous vide it, so that all the facts and juices from each of the chicken's parts meld together and are absorbed into all of the pieces of meat. Next, wrap the circle in skin and pan sear it, to give the exterior a beautiful golden sheen and crispy texture. The result is the most flavorful, succulent, moist chicken you will ever eat. No sauce or rub required, just the complete beauty of a humble chicken on display. The chicken was accompanied by a wonderful dish with corn, herbs, and mayonnaise. The waiter told us this was a special local Oaxacan dish eaten at Christmas time. it was delicious - sweet, savory, and mild, it tasted nutty and creamy and was the perfect accompaniment to the chicken. But since we could not leave without trying the risotto de huitlacoche, we also paired the chicken with a generous bowl of dark blue-grey, creamy risotto. The huitlacoche had its own texture, but worked as well in the risotto as rice, with a slightly larger chew. The sauce was fatty, creamy, and tasted as if it was possibly made with rich roasted bone marrow drippings. Everything about the huitlacoche lends itself to this medium, bleeding its color, flavor and texture into a dish so hearty and decadent that, as much as we wanted to, we could not finish the bowl.
After such an incredible meal, with every bite pitch perfect, we couldn't imagine ordering dessert. But that didn't stop us from taking a peek at the menu. Although there were any number of things to tempt any palate, we all stopped after seeing the first item on the menu: candied figs with hand made ricotta, hazelnuts, ice cream, and honey. We didn't think we could eat another bite, but for this, we would find room in a hollow toe. Few things can compete with a perfectly ripe fig, but even my favorite chocolate doesn't stand a chance against one of these candied figs. I can die a happy woman. read more