*inhales deeply as this review is going to be long*
Where do I even begin. Oof. So, I've been an avid hiker for quite some time, but about two years ago started taking it seriously. Like, backpacking, 14 mile hikes, rock scrambling, etc. serious.
I researched this place and my golly, I was going to do it if I had to wait years! It's open to 100 day hikers and 50 campers a day from April - Nov. so you have to be extremely lucky to get a permit through their lottery.
I got even luckier, because I caught a "alternative day permit" that was open on Oct. 23rd. Doing it in the middle of the week, woo! Anyway, I got there and apparently if you sign up for an alternative day permit, there is a chance where you can't actually hike the mountain.
This is a tip, because the ranger I talked to said that a lot of people come with no other goal than to hike Whitney and when they can't, they don't know what to do with themselves.
Right, onto the actual hike. If you have time the day before, drive up to the portal so you can check out the area. It helps, so that way you are horribly lost in the darkness on your hiking day. Also, it's gorgeous up there and deserves much respect. I can't talk much about camping as I was one of those crazy people that did it as a day hike. Start early...and I don't mean 5 a.m. early. I mean, get your butt into that mountain by 2:30-3:00 a.m. early. Wear a head lamp, bring gloves, a warm jacket, check the weather, be prepared to get crampons if needed, and just be prepared. End of story.
So ultimately, this is one of those trips that can be life changing. 22 miles alone, for 12-16 hours is a lot of time to get introspective and "get in touch with nature, bro." It was the most amazing hike I've ever been on, even though the first few hours were in complete darkness. You can see fellow hikers headlamps in the distance at night while you walk up the trail, which increases at around a steady 550ft per mile, roughly the whole way. The night sky, when you stop and look at it, is brilliant up there and seeing the sunrise over Death Valley is pleasant enough, but add the fact that you are in high altitude territory when it happens. It's something else.
So essentially, you start in an alpine forest with a bunch of trees, lakes, campsites and what have you. This is the part that you unfortunately do in the dark, so all you can see is what your headlamp lets you, even though you can hear water all around you. Soon the alpine turns into a snowy, rocky wasteland that offers it's own majestic beauty. Imagine being surrounded by nothing but tall cliffs, knowing that you are now well over 11k in the air, slowly rising.
Shortly after the last camp, which is where probably 95% of the campers were located when I went, the "terrible" 99 switchbacks are situated. Honestly, if you hike a lot and are used to switchbacks, these are nothing. Baby switchbacks, really, as most of them are relatively short. The only rough part about them, is the fact that you're gaining altitude, which makes it easier for you to get winded. If you've trained for this hike, or if you are an avid hiker, it's not terrible.
When you get to the ridgeline, congrats! You are over 13,000ft in the air! This is also, in my opinion, the worst 2 miles of the hike. Oxygen isn't plentiful, you are still gaining altitude, everything is horrible, and you start questioning your life decisions. But the peak is right there, you can see it! So after making more stops than you care to admit, you make it to the peak. The view is amazing. On a clear day, I could see Wheeler Peak, Charleston, and Telescope all in one go. The panarama is jaw dropping, and so is the wind. Luckily there is a tiny hut to go take shelter, eat your victory meal, let yourself rest for awhile, and make the 11 mile back to civilization.
It's a hard hike, even if you train for it. If the altitude doesn't get you, the 22 mile round trip will. By mile 18, i was more or less done with the whole day. I just wanted to get back to the car, retreat to the hotel, take a nice long shower, and pass out.
That being said, it's life changing, breathtaking, and every avid hiker should attempt it.