Why is Michael's Restaurant at Nostrand Avenue and Avenue R not recognized as a top-flight Italian restaurant? Is it because it's located outside of the fashionable Brooklyn Heights/Park Slope neighborhoods where no reservations, tight quarters, and indifferent atmosphere win accolades?
Michael's is spacious, elegant, and comfortable with table spacing that permits civilized conversation. It has a private dining room downstairs facing its glass wall wine cellar (a collection of thoughtfully chosen, equitably priced wines). This room sits 20 comfortably -- maybe 24 if they're very friendly. It also has a catering hall that can serve about 250 people. A valet-attended parking lot rounds out the physical plant. It's impressive, but it's not what sets Michael's apart.
What sets Michael's apart is the insight of its owners, the quality of its food, and the attitude of its staff. The second-generation brothers, Freddy and Johnny Cacace have taken their father's vision and refined it. It's been at the same location for 40 years.
The restaurant's conventional menu offers the expected array of Italian dishes lovingly prepared and handsomely presented. But it's in the "Specials" portion of the menu where the restaurant really shines. The "Specials" is populated with interesting, savory dishes some with international influences. There's an intriguing chunky crab salad blended with tropical fruit; a crunchy dish of pulpo, olives, onions, and garlic; succulent veal or lamb ossobucco; baby sardines with just a hint of olive. And the best salmon we've eaten anywhere. (Maybe it's because Johnny buys the entire salmon fresh and fillets it himself.). These are only a few of the creative, tantalizing choices. These "Specials" change frequently, which is important because Michael's has a large contingent of frequent customers. We're among them, eating there a couple of times a week.
Johnny runs the kitchen, although he's regularly seen in the dining room checking the customers' satisfaction index. Freddy greets customers and oversees the dining room. Somewhat casually but continually, he ranges around the room chatting with customers, assuring that they are content, yet keeping a vigilant eye on staff performance.
Some of our favorite moments during a busy time are watching Johnny or Freddy (or third generation Michael, who is engaged in the business and shows no weakening of the bloodline) pitch in to rearrange tables, bus tables, flick table cloths, open wine bottles--and generally perform every necessary task, that only owners who live the business do.
In the past several months we've eaten at least once at Scarpetta, Perbacco, Centro Vinoteca, Del Posto, Esca, Fiamma, Babbo, and Felidia. We mention this not to boast but to establish our passion, perspective, and palates for Italian food. These are all extraordinary (and expensive) restaurants with much to recommend them. But Michael's deserves a best-in-class award as a Brooklyn neighborhood restaurant read more