Not only is the All Star Lanes' bottomless craft beer brunch curated by Melissa Cole, award-winning…read morebeer writer and sommelier, but it amalgamates Americana brunch staples with a selection of craft beers. Each dish has been paired with a different beer to harmonise with its sweet or savoury notes, but diners are not restricted to this suggestion. Given that one of London's pet beers, Gamma Ray from Beavertown, was included in the package, it's probable that diners will only opt for this. But they're welcome to work their way through the drinks menu. Other drinks available in the offer include Steven's Point Amber Lager, Cerveza Pacifico Clara, Boulevard Brewery Single Wide IPA and a syrupy beer cocktail, the Brooklyn Breakfast. The dishes are on a pretty typical spectrum, including pancakes, salt beef hash and eggs and avocado on toast.
We booked a table for a large group over a month in advance at the Westfield Stratford location, but we were advised on the day that there was no reservation under our name. After some confusion, staff pulled a cluster of tables together to accommodate us. We were placed adjacent to an overexcited group of children in the front of the restaurant, which wasn't ideal for a group of childless adults who were boozing. The atmosphere was fairly disordered towards the back of the venue, where the bowling take places, and diners have to snake through groups (again, primarily children) who are changing their shoes in the path of the washrooms.
Our waiter was very accommodating and lively, making efforts to ensure that we were never without libation. The food was commendable as well- I had the chicken and waffles, which arrived in a shallow dish with a jug of maple syrup on the side. The fried chicken was on point with a crispy buttermilk shell and a moist centre, piled on several sections of fluffy golden waffle. I asked for the treacle-cured bacon on the side, and frankly didn't miss it- I pawned the two shrivelled slices on to my boyfriend. The chili butter didn't add anything for me either, but another diner professed to enjoy the subtle heat that it contributed to the dish. This was the most popular dish across the group, but the salt beef hash prompted equally positive reviews and looked great. The pancakes were reported to be slightly dry, but were still happily eaten.
The bottomless craft beer option costs the price of a meal (approximately £10 per dish) and an additional £19 for the drinks package. It isn't a cheap brunch option, but bearing in mind that a single can of Gamma Ray is listed at £5 each in the menu, it proves good value if you have more than 4 rounds. The drinks option is valid for a period of two hours only, so there's plenty of time to work through 4 x 330ml cans. With the heartier plates worked in, that amount of drink won't go to your head and we didn't feel rushed to imbibe, but there's always intense pressure to get value from a bottomless package. I think we managed about 5 or 6 cans each across two hours.
The environment is predictably frenzied and diners should expect a high proportion of children during the earlier brunching slots, but the package is available until 4pm. Be prepared to hail over waiters at any given opportunity to get another round, but they will happily oblige. The food is satisfying and I approve the concept of the beer brunch- I did try all of the drinks on offer and was happy to revert to Gamma Ray for most of the session. The Brooklyn Breakfast was much too sweet for my palate and I'd advise to stick to the beer.