I don't know him well enough to ask, but it appears to have been Chef David Kinch's founding vision for Mentone to take the best of French Provence, Northwestern Italy, and the Monterey Bay region and blend them all together to produce something accessible and affordable but also of lasting culinary value. It's not about making a Michelin-starred statement or celebrating New Orleans food and music this time, as was the case with Manresa and The Bywater, respectively. I think it's about making his coastal community a more attractive and comfortable place, food wise, to call home. A gift to his friends and neighbors after years of working in kitchens around the world at the highest level. And a coveted chance for younger generations of chefs, wine directors, mixologists, and wait staff to advance service industry journeys of their own. No, it's not charity. It's a business that must make a profit to stay afloat. But it also felt like a gift of sorts, from a master chef to his hard working crew and their dutifully paying customers. Maybe not a gift, exactly. But most definitely a message.
My gut feeling is that Mentone is intended to be a statement about the gastronomic present, one where contemporary eaters and drinkers rely on Yelp and Instagram for guidance, not the newspaper food critics or paid reviewers for Zagat. While the menu leans heavily towards traditional regional styles of cooking inspired by Italy and southeastern France, the overall vibe is contemporary and comfortable with lots of interesting wine, beer, cider, and cocktail choices and several seasonal specials that reflect the local farming and fishing seasons along the Central Coast. It's a family-friendly, neighborhood hangout with a real deal kid's menu, a highly desirable food tourist destination for singles and couples with weekday happy hour specials and rotating craft beer on tap, and a special occasion eating out spot with an excellent bottled wine list all rolled into one.
The city of Napoli is unquestionably the inspiration for Mentone's über-popular pizzas, of which some 4-5 varieties are available daily. The flour, which is custom blended and milled at Manresa Bread in Los Gatos, is slowly and naturally fermented over the course of several days, giving it a distinctive sourdough tang and soft pliability. It is hand stretched thinly into rounds and filled with tomato sauce, cheese, or other toppings and baked rapidly in an Italian made wood-fired oven. The oven's intense heat causes the edges to balloon up rapidly like life rafts, bubbling and charring in the process. By the time the pizza emerges from the oven, the cheese has melted into a semi-liquid sheen and the sauce has saturated the soft inner crust. The pizzaiolo slices each pie into six wedges, adds any remaining ingredients, and sends it out for service. It's ample enough as a meal for one, or it could be shared as part of a multi course dining experience, depending on your preference.
Eating a pizza like this is an immersive experience that demands a bit of focus on your part. You will need both hands and possibly the assistance of a knife and fork to do so. It's very different from New York style thin crust pizza or the Wolfgang Puck inspired, California-style gourmet pizzas that use fancy food items like white asparagus, Baja shrimp, fermented Serrano chiles, or jerk chicken. This is about honoring a regional style of Italian pizza making that has spread globally because of its gustatory appeal. Mentone isn't the only place in Northern California where you can find Neapolitan pizza (such as Centro, Doppio Zero, Diavola, Ciccio, & Il Casaro), but it probably can lay claim to being the most zealously committed to preserving the authenticity of the Old World methods.
Other parts of the compact food menu also highlight regional recipes, like the white bean and farro soup, chickpea and herb panisse, stracciatella soup, and tocco, a Ligurian meat sauce pasta similar to Bolognese. Seasonal specials, like a niçoise style salad with local eggs, tuna, and haricots verts (Riviera), porcini trennette pasta, or pumpkin ravioli with dandelion pesto, make use of the abundance of the Salinas Valley, Monterey Bay, and Santa Cruz coastal organic farms. Menus are generated daily & lines form about 10 minutes before opening. Food and drink specials are sometimes posted to their Instagram feed as well. If you haven't dined here before, doing a bit of research ahead of time will make the first visit more memorable. When it doubt about a menu item, ask the staff. They are eager & happy to help.
In the years to come, Mentone will surely adapt to the changing times. Little Beach can't stay the way that it is forever. Still, I hope that the commitments to regional cuisines, local ingredients, and inspired beverage choices will remain. It is writing its own history, one week and wine by the glass at a time. Stop by if you're interested and play your part in the making. read more