I visit here from time to time on the way to college football games, taking the drive 5 or 6 miles north of I 20 because Mary's allegedly has "the best chicken fried steak in Texas." Ok, that's bullshit. Don't get me wrong, it's pretty good, but the best I've ever had? Nope, but my standards are high. Look, I've had a whole lot of CFS in my many years on this Earth. The CFS at Mary's compares much more favorably than most the crap you get out there. Most CFS in restaurants is usually deep fried, has too thick a crust, and is served with flavorless, white, school book paste looking gravy. Any real Texan (and that means you came from small town Texas people, not flippin' Plano) knows that authentic CFS is PAN FRIED, does not have a thick crust, and the roux for the gravy is allowed to brown somewhat before the milk is added to it (how much browning is left to the discretion of the cook, and is subject to debate). THAT is authentic chicken fried steak.
At Mary's, the chicken fried steak is prepared authentically, so they get a lot of credit for that. The gravy is pretty good, but could be a bit darker. Make sure you know what size you're getting, because their "medium" is pretty big: it is more than enough for most people. The large order is the size of a throw rug, so don't order it unless you have a huge appetite. They have nice, big, cold beer schooners there, BTW, at great prices. Overall, I'd give the CFS at Mary's an 8 out of 10, which is pretty high in my book. The CFS is served on slices of Texas toast (to soak up the grease, of course) and comes with mashed potatoes or fries and a "salad." There are quotes around salad because it really isn't much of a salad...there are a few pieces of lettuce topped by a couple of lonely carrot strips in a bowl...I usually eat one piece of lettuce to not feel quite so guilty about eating so many other brown and white things. As another Yelp poster so amusingly put it, there are squeeze bottles of ranch dressing of varying "vintages" on the tables for your "salad"...I've never had the balls to try it. But don't take any of this the wrong way: Mary's is pretty darned tasty.
I've never tried the burgers there, but they are HUGE and look great.
As far as "ambience" goes, that's a word one won't readily associate with a visit to Mary's. Like many Texas small town diner-type restaurants, it's pretty dumpy. The tables and chairs are rickety, the towels they wipe the tables with (if they happen to) are hardly "antiseptic" and crumbs abound on the floor. The customers are loud, and don't be listening for Vivaldi, Led Zeppelin or Boosie BadAzz to be playing in the background, cuz that ain't happening: they have both kinds of music, Country and Western. But look, that's part of the deal, the binding social contract providing that a small town Texas diner is going to be a dump, but you won't bitch about it because they're going to serve you decent food. I think I read that somewhere.
And, if you're wondering: the "best chicken fried steak in Texas"? Sadly, it doesn't exist any more...it was once found at the Bishop Street Grill in the Oak Cliff part of Dallas, Texas. The place closed a few years back, and of all things, has been replaced by a damned "Hunkys." Take me now, Lord. read more