Before starting this review, I looked up "arduous" in the dictionary to make sure I would be using it correctly. Instead of finding "involving or requiring strenuous effort; difficult and tiring," I saw a picture of one of the dining rooms in Mary's Cafe. That was how I knew I was on the right track with my word choice. Which is a shame because this could be a good place if the service was slightly faster than "glacial."
Six of us journeyed out here on a Sunday because we had heard tales of glory regarding Mary's and their marquee proudly announcing "Home of the World Famous Chicken Fried Steak." International acclaim is fantastic, and if this chicken fried steak truly was globally recognized for providing an experience that would make the poets weep, we wanted to have a similar opportunity to have our collective minds blown. That we did, though not in the ways we were anticipating.
When we arrived in the dirt lot behind the building, we marveled at how busy Mary's was. Additional parking across the street was parked solid, and it was clear this was the nexus of activity in town. The place is a lengthy building with two dining rooms bookending an entrance room that house a merchandise table, a cashier desk, a couple tables, and a crane game that is almost assuredly there to test whatever shred of patience you may still have in your possession when all is said and done. The outside is pretty inviting, with a few benches and what looks like a hitching bar to sit upon. Locals and tourists alike were all out here, creating a welcoming atmosphere for first-timers and regulars alike.
A hostess would periodically emerge from the entrance and call the names of parties when it was time to be seated. When our group was called, she told us to grab the first table to the right when we walk in. It was not the most personable welcome to Mary's, but we found the table easily as it was the only one open in the packed dining room illuminated by various neon beer signs and a TV set tuned to the football game. For as packed as the dining room was, though, not once did it get loud. We were able to talk with one another and wonder what was taking our food so long without needing to repeat ourselves as we discovered the "trick" to enjoying a visit at Mary's.
You see, the locals know to call in their order before arriving. Then, after they are seated, they do not have to endure the 80-minute wait for food after ordering. I'm not exaggerating, by the way: we witnessed a group of seven arrive after us, eat and leave before we were done. And we were not the only table to experience this phenomenon in our dining room.
At about the 70-minute mark, a guy in our party asked our waitress what was taking so long and she replied that a fryer had gone out. If that was the case, why would you not tell that to your customers ahead of time instead of making them inquire about the perpetual state of limbo their food is in? Adding more absurdity to the equation was when she returned later to say "they're putting your food together now." That's a deceivingly confusing phrase to use when referring to edible deliverables; it made me wonder if the food was like a low-budget Lego set that needed to be constructed, only the directions were eaten by the cow that was presently being cooked.
Nonetheless, food did appear: a side order of green beans and a community-sized bowl of gravy. For about 10 minutes, we all endured a staring contest with these plates, waiting for the rest to arrive. Essentially, we endured a Sisyphean ordeal where the waitress would appear in the doorway with another dish, dashing our hopes as it would inevitably be delivered elsewhere as our almost Pavlovian responses became rites of passage in our attempts to eat lunch. When all was said and done, four of us eventually got food before the remaining twosome got theirs 10 minutes later.
The only redeeming factors of this whole ordeal were the prices and the food, itself. Pricing is very fair, and the food, once it arrives seemingly by Pony Express, is universally delicious. It's not life-changing, and nowhere near the best you'll have, but it is tasty. The chicken fried steak is good, the chicken fried chicken is actually better, and the side dishes (plus gravy) are worth chomping down on. Add in 24-oz. beers and you have a place that will not destroy your wallet as you destroy your diet.
Really, the service model here is the biggest fault. Why did our waitress have no one helping her? (It was not fair that she had to bear the brunt of dissatisfaction from our dining room by herself.) Why were we not told our food may arrive in 1 to 5 business days? And did the fryer really go out? A quick glance at another Yelp review reflects a similar incident, making me do my best Sherlock Holmes and question if this is simply the go-to excuse if people start asking questions.
So while "World Famous" may be on the marquee, "arduous" was a more accurate description for our visit. read more