Malagón: The Hidden Gem
Tucked away on a quiet block just off King Street in downtown Charleston, Malagón is inconspicuous, and my fiancée and I nearly missed it. Once inside, we were greeted with a warm welcome and politely asked where we would like to sit. We chose the bar. While browsing the simply arranged menu and deciding which Spanish wine to imbibe, we couldn't help but admire the authentic décor and charming ambience.
Artfully framed oil paintings. Jamón hocks on hooks. Wooden trays of fresh-baked bread. Cellophane bags of dried pasta. Walls of tinned and jarred delicacies. Glass displays of chilled charcuterie and cheese. Rows upon rows of bottled Spanish wines and soda pops. Spotless wine glasses suspended by their feet on steel frames. Tastefully dim light fixtures. Soft melodies insinuating the babble of the open kitchen.
We eventually opted for the La Rioja Alta "Viña Alberdi", a tart tempranillo blend, as well as the Buile & Giné "Giné Giné" (which we pronounced like Forest Gump calling for his beloved), a sweet and robust Carignan/Garnacha blend. To start, we ordered the Tomato Salad, the Gambas a la plancha, and the Chicharrones de Cádiz. While sipping our wines and awaiting our first round of tapas, we had a lovely chat with a young lady server, who informed us about Malagón's sister restaurant, a French bistro located just a block down the street called Chez Nous. We inquired about the name Malagón, which sounded to me like some obscure geometrical shape, and the server informed us that it is in fact a name in the owner's ancestry.
The first dish to arrive was the tomato and tuna salad with guindilla peppers. It was lemony and refreshing, doused in oil. The tomatoes were ripe and juicy. The tuna was steamed and succulent, and the pickled peppers were crisp, tart and mildly sweet 'n' spicy, like a pepperoncini. The next dish was the gambas: grilled, head-on shrimp dusted with sea salt and plated with oil and a lemon wedge. These shrimp were cooked to perfection and quite satisfying, but we thought perhaps the dish would benefit from a chef's-choice dipping sauce on the side, for those who desire a little more bite from their crustaceans.
The next dish was the chicharrones--ah, the blessed chicharrones. These were my personal favorite. Slightly crispy yet succulent cubes of pork belly dusted with cumin, skewered with tooth picks and served with a lemon wedge. Equally as good with or without lemon juice, the server told us, and she was spot on. They are sautéed in a pan to preserve the tenderness of the belly fat, and it works, because they positively melt in your mouth.
Hungry for more, we ordered a few slices of the fresh-baked sourdough along with the Jamón Serrano and the Alt Urgell. The Jamón is a dry cured Spanish ham charcuterie and the Alt is a semi-soft, robust cows milk cheese from Cataluña. The sourdough was still warm and pillow-y, a perfect bed for the thinly sliced and salty jamón. The cheese was exceptionally pungent and funky, smelling of yeast and sweat, and upon witnessing our stunned reactions the server recommended chasing the cheese with their one and only beer, the Edmund's Oast Cervesa De Malagón, a blonde ale made specially for the restaurant. Spot on once again! The ale gently extinguished the funk of the cheese and brought forth its subtle smoky flavors.
Realizing that up to this point we had been rather meat-and-bread-heavy, we decided to order some vegetables to finish on a healthy note. We ordered the Espárragos Blanco con Anchoas, a plate of white asparagus spears drizzled with aioli and topped with bits of anchovy, and the Berenjena Crujiente, a dish of crispy eggplant chips with honey. The asparagus was shockingly tender and mild, with none of the stringiness and bitterness typically associated with the vegetable. We believe it was also dusted with chili powder, which gave it just the right amount of spice. The plate came with only four or five spears, and the anchovy pieces were rather small. The eggplant chips were salty but mostly sweet and wafer-thin--a perfect dessert.
Finally we capped off the dining experience with some liquids: a sherry for my cherie and an espresso for me. My fiancée enjoyed her sherry and the espresso was as good as any I've ever shot and gave a boost to boot. We relished our pleasant conversations with the servers, who had amiable attitudes and were highly knowledgeable and forthcoming.
Spanish tapas restaurants are all the rage these days. Just in the last few years, we've seen a sharp rise in the number of taperías in the Charleston metropolitan area. Some of them are quite good--Estadio, for example, which has a lively vibration, wonderful wine selection, and albóndigas (meatballs) that will blow your mind. But if you're looking for exceptional tapas and service, in a calmer, more intimate setting, Malagón Mercado y Tapería outshines the stadium. read more