If you're lucky enough to visit Berlin, at one point during your trip you'll want to sample the local cuisine beyond the currywurst. Everyone pointed to Lutter & Wegner as the place to go for fine, mid-priced German cuisine. In operation for exactly 300 years this year, the restaurant has four outlets scattered throughout central Berlin, and I tried the one closest to my hotel in Charlottenburg. While a bit cramped, it definitely has the old-world ambiance that must appeal to big families taking grandma out for her 70th birthday. At least that was the impression I got from the clientele who was there at 6:30PM.
The menu required a bit of translation, at least the daily specials page, which the young waitress was more than happy to do for my benefit. There were so many variations on meat, potatoes, and sauerkraut that I was torn on what to try. I went for the Tagessuppe ("Soup of the Day", 7 Euros), which was a lovely veal broth with liver blood sausage meatballs mixed with equally spherical dumplings and basil (see photo). This was followed by a hearty entree, the 9.50-Euro Grilled Irish Hereford Angus Entrecote with Wiesenpilzen (Forest Mushrooms) and Bratkartofflen (Sauteed Potatoes) (see photo).
Granted an unadventurous choice on my part but a delicious steak. It was all fine up to that point, but as the place was starting to fill, I have to say I was summarily ignored. It was starting to get silly since I only wanted the check to avoid the oncoming rainstorm. Then I did the unthinkably gauche thing for a typical American to do and walked up to the bar to pay my tab. I'm sure the waitstaff winced at my behavior, but I really just wanted to free up a table for them. Anyhow, I'd still go back to Lutter & Wegner, preferably with a big party with a lot of glasses of Riesling to clink together.
FOOD - 4 stars...hearty German fare with continental flair
AMBIANCE - 3.5 stars...dark but classy though the tables are a bit packed together
SERVICE - 3 stars...started off great and then just plain disappeared
TOTAL - 4 stars...someone sing "Edelweiss" for me read more