More or less New American-Italian prix fixe as so many DSM places are lately. Lucca's website told us to expect three courses on Saturday, and it looked like the best deal around. As it turned out, they hadn't been to Gateway to stock up on cheeses, so there was no cheese course.
Lucca has carved itself out of a space that once held the Dumpsters for the neighboring businesses. It's now an alley with a roof and a kitchen in the middle. When an open kitchen is done well, it's an admirable accomplishment. So many things can go wrong in a kitchen, and so many things happen in a kitchen that would ruin the appetite of the average diner, that they are best kept in the back. Lucca's 2-man kitchen did seem to handle everything smoothly and professionally, though i wonder how the cooks heard each other over the din of the jazz band at the front of the house.
Katie ordered the gnocchi, and I requested the pear and spinach salad. They were out of gnocchi, so she settled for the frittata. She ordered the scallops, and I had the salmon, since they were also out of swordfish. She got the better of both courses, though even hers were forgettable. My pear and spinach was just that. Pears and spinach don't make a salad. A salad really should have more than two ingredients. However in the event that these two ingredients are included, pears should be cored and spinach should be de-stemmed. Slicing a pear in half and forgetting to remove the seeds does not make it fancy or elegant. It's tacky. Spinach that has been so hastily removed from its bag that no care was put into its placement is even worse.
Fritattas are hard to fuck up, and Lucca lived up to this expectation. The fritatta included vegetables, eggs, and cheese. However, any additional details were forgotten moments after consumption.
Onto the mains. Katie's scallops over vegetables were well executed and had a very nice presentation. The scallops were sizeable and not the usual small portions sometimes dished out by stingy restaurantuers. The underlying bed of vegetables was well porportioned with a light sauce. My salmon, on the other hand, was the handiwork of a novice chef. It was salty, slightly overdone, and swimming in an unappetizing bath of mashed legumes that looked like baby diarrhea. It did taste better than it looked, but I do wonder if it was well-served by being pureed. The stark juxaposition of these two seafood items was discombobulating and seemed to appear from two different kitchens.
Then there were the bathrooms. Strangely, no one has mentioned these cubicles of hell before on Yelp. Perhaps because everyone has tried desperately to dissociate or block them from memory. The bathrooms occupy a squat closet that is oddly situated in the dining room, rather than customarily tucked away into a back corner. Once inside, the bright walls are accented with a full mirror right there so you can watch yourself "do your business." Why anyone thinks a patron wants to be that intimate with their bodily functions is beyond me. Not to mention the implicit rationale for the band must be to distract those eating from the occasional flushing sound coming from behind the kitchen.
Finally, there are the details of the wine and absentee third course. The wine was excessively over-priced for Des Moines. More upsetting though, it was overpriced for its vintage and label.
Before arriving at Lucca's, we had compared their prix fixe to those at Django and Bistro Montage. Since D.C.'s Blue Duck has made us partial to having our cheese for dessert, we were drawn in by Lucca's third course, which included cheese, on Saturday nights. When our bill arrived, rather than a cheese menu, Katie inquired about the missing component. The waitress grimaced and responded that it was a "secret deal" that wasn't usually provided. Except that "secret deal" is mentioned on the website.
All in all, we spent approximately $90 on dinner (including wine). Undeniably, our money would have gone further and been better spent elsewhere. read more