My party of three went to Lucca for a Saturday night dinner. We arrived fifteen minutes before our reservation, but they seated us right away and took our drink orders. The restaurant occupies a long, narrow space with heavily-mortared brick walls and a small exhibition kitchen 2/3rds of the way toward the back of the room. A canvas bag of trash blemished the scene by resting against the wall across from us.
Our server wore too much hair gel and seemed like there were at least thirteen other places he'd have rather been than Lucca. He was hipster apathy embodied within a jersey shore exterior. It was moderately off-putting, but he did a decent job throughout the night.
I ordered the duck terrine for the first course and the other two patrons had the gnocchi. The terrine's saltiness was nicely complemented by an apricot marmalade or chutney on top, and sliced pistachios added some texture. The gnocchis were fantastic: large, soft, and tossed in a light bath of olive oil and parmesan with a hint of sage. While I appreciate the delicate nature of gnocchi, these were a little underseasoned and also could have used more sage. That minor gripe aside, the first course was very good for all of us.
(As a side note about the slightly-underseasoned gnocchi, Lucca has no salt and pepper at the table. I find it presumptuous when a restaurant does this. I've been to nicer restaurants that provide these, and I find little reason NOT to.)
For the second course, I ordered a salmon dish that was done almost like a tagine except with Spanish or New World seasonings. Beans and cumin provided an earthy base, and the salmon was crispy on the outside but tender on the inside. Overall, the dish was slightly heavy and clumsy, but it was delicious and well-seasoned.
Another patron's scallops were prepared nearly perfectly (the sear was a bit weak), but the dish was unexciting. The scallops rested on a bed of mashed potatoes surrounded by a simplistic vermouth bisque that provided some color but little flavor. It was nothing to complain about but nothing worth remembering. I would order it if I really wanted scallops some night.
The third person had the braised pork shoulder that was pedestrian. It was something you'd expect out of a crockpot from an aunt who possesses moderate culinary talent.
Desserts were delicious, but those aren't rocket science.
Overall, Lucca did a lot of things right and not a lot of things wrong. Nothing was prepared poorly. The gnocchi is a special dish, and everything else ranged from serviceable to very good. This place seems consistent and solid. In addition, the prix fix format was priced very reasonably ($33 I believe), and the portions were sufficient.
The wine by the glass options were severely-lacking. I don't think they had a single chianti on the menu, and I joked to our party that it was an Italian restaurant with a french wine menu. That part didn't make much sense to me, and I don't think the options were particularly well-matched to the food. In addition, there was no wine by course option for the prix fix.
In closing, I'd say the restaurant moved us in and out with adequate service (the server's personality aside) and the food was solid. I would recommend it to others; just keep your expectations in line with the reasonable prices and don't expect the world. read more