Annually, for almost a decade, we have stayed at the Negresco. as a matter of fact, We look forward to our visit after leaving the Ritz in Madrid each year. Up to this year there has not been any fall off, but this year was truly a heartbreaking disappointment.
We have always looked forward to the omnipresent original art, the unique, beautiful rooms - the Blue Room, the Red Room, the Napoleon Suite, the Dali floor - and the friendly, personal service, but this year was sadly different.
This year, we were given a sea-view mini-suite with a great bathroom so, at the on-set, we were pleased, but as we settled in, we began to hear VERY loud hammering and drilling. We called the front desk and were informed that 40 or so rooms were under construction, and although the construction would not go on over the weekend, it would resume Monday morning. (We were checking in on Friday for five days.) My wife went downstairs to discuss the matter because we had a non-refundable arrangement. The desk clerk was stubbornly unhelpful, but the general manager offered other rooms even at a lower rate, but these were rooms we had lived in on previous visits. One of the beauties of this place is to experience the uniqueness of each visit, and we could not be assured that we would not still hear the construction, so, after considerable haggling, we finally negotiated to stay two nights and move Sunday before the constructions resumed. That seemed fair, but as soon as my wife got back to our room, the now somewhat mean-spirited desk clerk called and said that although Sunday and Monday would be forgiven Tuesday would still have to be paid. My wife immediately asked for the manager again. Adding more insult, while we sitting in the room waiting for the manager to call us back, my wife noticed a roach crawling up my leg. Feh! The manager finally called back and forgave the Tuesday charge, but the issue of the roach was also on the table.
To their credit, Management did send up a bottle of gratis champagne, but we were at that point too disappointed for it to make a real difference.
Importantly, it seems that Madame Augier, the live-in owner and long-time friend of Dali himself, (See http://frankpleasants.blogspot.fr/2013/05/the-decline-of-madame-augier.html) is very old (90+) and, and according to staff, very weak. The hotel is rapidly being transformed from her personal museum/hotel into a profit-centered commodity. For example, the historical Versailles Room is just a remnant of its original self. Its Louis XIV furniture has been replaced with conical plastic chairs. Horrible! Residents have to satisfied with a photo of how splendid and awe-inspiring the space used to be. It seems like it will not be long before the gigantic original oil of Louis XIV will be replaced with a velvet Elvis or something else as gauche. The weird unique sculptures in the gigantic, beautiful rotunda have been moved and replaced with lines of chairs and a temporary stage for events. The old long-time staff - doormen, bellmen, desk clerks, waiters - has been replaced to a person by very young, beautiful/handsome 20-somethings. Their attitudes are courteous but minimally sincere, thin and tenuous.
The management and staff seem to be on edge waiting for Madam Augier to pass away so that they can begin full throttle to change this wonderful art and living phenomenon on the Cote D'Azur into a tourist drawing, money-making enterprise.
Our two nights there this time were very bitter sweet.
We moved to the Meridien up the street to a mini-suite with the panoramic view of a lifetime, and as we looked back at the brightly lit cupola of the Negresco, we were drawn to it by our years of fond memories wishing to feel again how we felt living there in the past. But my wife says that it like our years in Havana: When you go back, your heart sinks with disappointment of something irreparably changed and gone forever. Capitalism is a mickey-fickey and change can be so painful sometimes.
In the case of the Negresco, a true institution is disappearing before our eyes. Madam Augier will be spinning in her grave when she does pass, but bless her soul for the many years she ruled over a true masterpiece of art and experience in the south of France. read more