I have done a number of climbs and treks with RMI, around the world. This isn't a review about all…read moreof them, just their Rainier climb. It's easy to look at Rainier everyday, especially if you live in Seattle, and forget that it is heavily glaciated, prone to avalanches and that people perish annually--even the best prepared and skilled.
Most people who attempt this mountain and are considering a guide service lack the deep quiver of knowledge to handle basic mountaineering tasks like self-arrest, configure a safe rope team through crevasses and perform a rescue. RMI fills that gap and creates a unique learning environment in a very short period of time to make that happen for hundreds of folks annually. Climbing Rainier is imminently doable, but you gotta put in the work. I have a few comments and suggestions to make the most of it!
1. Be in shape: The number of folks who claim to be marathoners and can't make it to Camp Muir at 10,000 ft. is way more than you think. Climbing is a whole-body endeavor. You need to not just cardio-fit, but be able to balance weight, uphill, at altitude, for hours on end. Their website clearly says be in 'the best shape of your life.' That means something different to everyone, of course. But don't get solely stuck on how far you can run--that's just part of it. You need to have well-rounded fitness regime. The pace is very consistent, very steady but can feel taxing if you don't have a solid base of balance, flexibility, strength, stamina.
2. Gear: Gear is one of the things you can control, so control it. Take their recommendations seriously. If you are renting stuff through them, great. They know what works after thousands of clients and 50 years, trust them. If you show up with a bunch of iffy stuff, they will say something. You are on their rope team, too! They need you to be safe and comfortable and so do your fellow climbers. Don't spend all the time training, getting to the mountain, paying the fees and then cheap-out. All the used, good quality gear you need if out there-just do a little online searching. You don't need to spend a fortune but you DO need to be mindful. I have seen blisters, inadequate sleeping bags, etc., ruin trips. Call them if you have a question about a specific piece of gear.
3. Find your bliss: If you want to climb your own speed, take in the sights, get back to nature, you can't have a lot of people each doing that on their own timeframe AND expect to climb together. Climbing in glacier-ville requires being rested, attentive and focused to be a solid rope-team member. If you are wanting to commune with nature and do this on your leisurely timeline, at your pace, great. Climb by with your experienced friends. When you go as a group? There is a pace. Climbing for an hour and a short break is pretty standard. If you are well-practiced and have been training, your breaks should be short and focused on maintaining your health, not resting because you're tired. If it's 10 below, and windy, you need to know how to do tasks quickly and efficiently to keep you warm, hydrated, fed and able to continue.
The climbing season on Rainier is busy and RMI leads climbs near-daily. Yep, that means there is a timeline. This is a business but their thousands and thousands of successful climbers up Rainier mean they have the process down. Their focus is safety for everyone and that means that the pace allows for recover at Camp Muir, a restful evening, breaks that don't take too much time. If something goes awry, you need time to put plans into motion--up is only halfway and if you're struggling on the way up, it won't be better on the way down.
Rainier is a big, tall mountain with crazy weather and a lot of objective hazards that requires considerable skill to navigate it safely. RMI has that. Pay attention to their suggestions, requirements and instruction and weather-willing, you'll be on top!