One of America's most majestic peaks, Mount Rainier towers over the Washington landscape like a…read morebeacon, easily visible on clear days from downtown Seattle, 70 miles to the north. Close up, the mountain's 14,000' peak often disappears behind treetops and fog, playing a game of hide and seek with visitors traversing the winding roads of its sprawling national park, craning their necks for a glimpse of the summit.
But a visit to Mount Rainier National Park is like a game of chance. You can leave Seattle, as we did recently, under clear morning skies, with the mountain looming far in the distance, and then watch the clouds slowly close in as you near your destination. Weather conditions can make all the difference here, so make sure you pay close attention before setting out. Mid July through early September provide the best window to see the mountain in all its summertime glory -- come earlier in the year and you may find an environment decidedly less accommodating for the casual hiker.
Rainier offers dozens of hiking trails, waterfalls, lakes and scenic vistas, and the ideal visit requires multiple days to experience it all. If you're coming for a day trip from the Seattle area, arrive early to beat the traffic at the entrance and prioritize easily accessible spots like Narada Falls, Reflection Lake and Paradise Meadows, where parking spots quickly disappear by noon.
We arrived at the South Entrance on a weekday around 9 a.m. and drove right up to the entrance gate, but the lines to enter during peak season, especially on weekends, can be notoriously long. A highly recommended stop is the Longmire Visitor Center, where the rangers will advise you on road and trail conditions and help you plan your day.
The park's showstopper is the popular Skyline Trail, a moderately challenging 5.5-mile loop that climbs 1,500' from the parking lot at Paradise Meadows to the spectacular Panorama Point Overlook. In summer, the trail meanders through a breathtaking sea of wildflowers and offers views of glaciers and waterfalls as it works its way across Rainier's southern slope.
But on our recent visit, in early June, we found out that a even a light rain can makes the park's spectacular Skyline Trail a dicey expedition. The cold drizzle we encountered at the trailhead quickly evolved into an icy mix of sleet and snow as our family neared Panorama Point, making the narrow trails dangerously slick. Despite coming equipped with winter jackets, warm gloves and sturdy hiking boots, the conditions forced us to retreat before reaching the trail's famous overlook, which was already shrouded in dense fog.
Despite not being able to enjoy the views and scenery we had hoped for, our visit to Mount Rainier was an unforgettable experience -- a challenging but highly rewarding winter hike on snow-covered trails surrounded by glaciers, icy peaks, and furry marmots who bounded around us like giant squirrels posing for candid photos. It was also a reminder that any visit to a national park is subject to the grace of Mother Nature, and inspired us to plan a return trip to this spectacular place -- hopefully when we can see Rainier's summit against a blue Washington sky.
