Doff your chapeau and enter one of the great temples of gastronomy, take a knee and be blessed by the spirit of Saint Eugenie Brazier.
You are in the original site of this palace of pleasure, although it has had an face lift or two since the early 1900's. Who hasn't? The decor is the definition of elegance, Continental dining reaffirmed as a special treat for adults, so no flip flops and tanks...thanks.
It is a huge restaurant (think the French Laundry that requires a trail map), and all the rooms have the same feel as if you were shopping in a Bergdorf-Goodman private designer's salon.
So, ask for your Kir Royale, poured table side and let everything including your 401K get ready for wonderful abuse.
The Staff: No stiff staff here. Your cadre of specialists will be formal, professional, without being pretentious. They will all function like a military drill team and all take pride in serving you as if they were the owners. The Somm was truly a wizard of wine. I asked for Sparkling Water and he asked "How many bubbles do you like?" "Qui", said he. "You may select the bubble count from a few to a few too many".
The Food: Now we're talkin' bout something serious. And remember last night at Daniel and Denise when you said you were never gonna eat again. So much for that lie.
Just to Amuse-Bouche you, start with tucking into the Chicken, Ham, Foie Gras en Croute with Sour Cherries. I was more than amused.
I eschewed the set menu in favor of Eugenie's greatest hits ala carte. Yes, it's more expensive that way, but you get exactly what you must have plus some surprises. (Have that same chat with the Bell Captain at the Venetian in Vegas and see what you get).
Out comes the tray of Butters sculpted and initialed patiently waiting for the Bread Boy who will bring Beet/Cranberry, Baguette Two Ways, and Country French. No shame in having the lot.
Next, you get Son of Amuse Bouche. (The only minor stumble in a three and a half hour extravaganza). A small skin-on Mackerel Filet, Lardons, and Salmon Roe, in a nest of Daikon, all awash in Dashi Broth. While Sakai Morimoto may have applauded, it was slightly fishy. (Like the Trump inner circle). Can I say fishy and oily in Le Mere Brazier? Yes, but only once.
The Somm kept a vigilant eye on my table pacing and perfectly pairing the wines by the glass...all eight of them. Plan on Rebu after dinner (Uber backwards like I was).
Out came the Spider Crab with Condiments and Cavier (Osetra). This was as refreshing as a sea breeze. A pile of Sweet Crab, a tiny touch of Cream, topped with Seafood Foam as high as Dolly Parton's hair with Cavier filling the part in the center of her do. It made me want to rush home and lay naked in the display case at Santa Monica Seafood just so I could reach the crab. Getting crabs...bad. Getting these crabs...good.
The Crispy Pike Mousse with Crayfish and young Vegetables in a lake of Nantua Sauce (Crayfish) was complex and labor intensive. It was one of the finest dishes you may ever find and you'll only find it here. A subtly different flavor in every bite as you work your way around the plate. Like a new lover it was something filled will depth and delight. Okay, maybe the comparison is a little exaggerated, but I will never forget that fish dish.
The main event was the signature La Volaille Poulet Bresse en Vessie de la Mere Filloux en Deux Services. (Two birds with one stone). The Bresse Breast is AOC and is the best in the World. It is a whole chicken steamed inside a Pig's Bladder and carved table side. The legs are whisked away and the breast is laid carefully on a bed of poached Baby Carrots, Baby Scallions, White Radishes, Wild Mushrooms and then ceremoniously anointed with Tarragon Sauce. Make motor boats in your Nuits St George Alexie Gortan 2013. Magnificent is the word that comes to mind, tongue and tummy. No more Costco Rotisserie for me...ever.
And just when you thought it was safe and the meal manageable, out come the Legs, fried crisp, with a warm Salad of Butter Lettuce, Frisee and mini-Croutons. It's the French answer to Peking Duck.
And just before you experience Death by Cheese the house sends out a palate energizer of Lychee Sorbet with Honeyed Madeleine. It's reinforcements for your personal Battle of the Bulge.
Ah Fromage, where is thy sting? May I suggest the Charolais, Beaufort Saint Nectaire, Saint Marcellin, and the Rigotte de Comdieu? Feeling cheesy now? Too full to get into Heaven, I'll wait curbside for a week.
And finally, the Cacao Sorbet, so rich it clings to the roof of your mouth like Velcro. Plus, a Chocolate Tarte with Salted Caramel and Peanuts will certainly find a home next to that Pike Mouuse and Chicken.
Go ahead swallow that mini-Raspberry Mousse in Pastry with Lemon Meringue too. You deserve it and the Chef and I insist.
Eugenie, you're a Genie. read more