Who knows why this place is named Daniel and Denise? The owners kids? Their Puppies? Ex-lovers? No matter. What's in a name asked the Bard?
This spot has the Appellation of Bouchons sporting a decal of that little guy with the big schnoz in the window. Which means, it's authentic.
It's a modern space made to look historic. Kinda like dipping an "antique" in tea for a week. There's a plate rail stocked with the appropriate French kitchen tchochkes and tables packed together like sardines which is a good business model at the sacrifice of the DMZ between diners.
Even though it is a large place, it does have a cozy Bouchon feel, and it is apparent that someone did a deep dive into someone's deep pocket to trick this place out. There are two other D and D's in town although this is the flagship. So, I say, start where it all started and by 8:30 it will be packed to the faux rafters and ready to deliver. The kitchen is on fire and everyone all fired up, so things will arrive moments after ordering. Brace yourself.
The Vibe: The young and the French, a sprinkle of locals to add local flavor and a few touristes who actually used their Babel App.
The Staff: Brother Igor (his nom de serveur?) was happy to do it in several languages with flair and panache. He was the warm-up guy for Jerry Seinfeld. Exuberant, cheerful, helpful, patient, and a fun dude. He added to the whole experience.
Note to you: The menu is larger than the Wine List and there is no Somm to palm. So, make it easy on yourself and go with the House this or that. The Cote du Rhone Village was just fine for a wine and dine. Maybe begin with a Counard which is the signature Aperitif of Red Wine and Cassis. It was Frat party punch and just as a lethal, but really quite good.
The Food: Waiting for you when you are seated is a mini-bucket of Grattons. (Cold Fried Pork Skins. Read Chicharones, or if you are of the tribe, Gribenes). They are just as bad for you in French or Yiddish but hey, they are like Crack and you're in Lyon. Hoover the lot, I say. It comes with bread so crunchy it will threaten your fillings, and a cuplet of Red Wine Vinegar, Fromage Blanc, Olive Oil, and Chives to spread on everything, including your chin.
Now, let's get serious. Tete de Veau is a no brainer and should not be missed. Calf Brains sauteed in a 70 year old pan with Butter, Wine, and Lemon, designed for cooking your brains out. You'd be a brainless cretin to pass on this.
The cerebral lobes were cooked perfectly with no strings attached. The brains either had the consistency of an oyster or the cow had the brains of an oyster. Either way, it was simply marvelous, and brought tears to my eyes as I recalled my Mum's version which was almost as good as these.
A fan of Smoked Salmon appeared next. (I'm a big fan of Smoked Salmon). And after that, Saucisse en Croute landed on my table. It was a fat weenie baked into a Brioche loaf and soaking in a Red Wine, Current reduction with Fried Parsley adding character and crunch. As both dishes were Flintstone sized, I would have been satisfied to throw in the towel here, but when the going gets tough, the tough unbuckle their pants and keep going.
The Special Veal Rib Chop roasted with fresh Chanterelles, all afloat in a pan of Au Jus, showed up. The meat was spork tender, any fat rendered out, and the rib-bone allowed for a good gnaw after the veal chunks went missing.
A Mac 'n Cheese with Comte Cheese and crisp Home Fries suddenly appeared and just as quickly disappeared.
An order of Bresse Chicken had to be ordered too as this is also chicken by appellation only. Lyon local, so what the cluck is stopping you beside the fact that you were full three courses ago?
The bird was very chicken-y and buried under a busted dam of Mushroom Cream Sauce. It was not Campbell's Cream of Mushroom Soup but rather a light lovely creamy lake and not the sludge you'd get in less capable hands. Is it as good as you will find at Le Mere Brazier? Non, pas tout a fait, but then what is?
Finally, dessert time, having passed on the L'assiette fu Fromage. So, now try to chose from a serious list of seriously sweet productions, if you can.
I had the Pot du Chocolat Creme with Honeyed Madeleine. It was as thick as thick Peanut Butter or a campaign promise, nor could I resist a scoop of Cassis Sorbet which was fabulous and harkened the early years of Haagan Daze before they went all Trader Joe's.
Daniel and Denise and Me made for three very happy people. read more