I took my sister here for her birthday--and I haven't been this ambivalent on an opinion since I watched the theatrical cut of 2001's Moulin Rouge. Did I like it? Did I dislike it? Was I dazzled by all the spectacle and then left hollow by the empty pretty?
I think that's where I netted out with Kappo Sono: Empty pretty.
The dishes for our weeknight Abridged Kaiseki were lovely to behold and taste, but felt bereft of real warmth or personality. There was a lot of trademark Japanese hospitality, but it felt performative and rehearsed, not genuine. And for ~$350pp, I guess I expected to walk away feeling better than I did.
The foods:
- Sakizuke: A simple dish of grilled wild prawn with sesame tofu tempura. Not remarkable.
- Zensai: Probably our best course, given the diversity and complexity of the bites. I enjoyed the crab cake wrapped in sakura leaf, dashi-marinated octopus roe, apple potage, and wagyu roast beef with almond miso. Gave my sis the simmered abalone, as it's not my fav, which she said was good. Overall, well done but not as impressive as similar zensai courses I've had at other kaiseki.
- Owan: An okay dish of Manila clam dumpling with fresh kelp and dashi. Nice hot broth, but otherwise rather sterile.
- Otsukuri: Our assorted sashimi was fresh and well cut, but I've had more interesting seafood with prettier presentations from other kaisekis like Hakubai. This couse was disappointing.
- Yakimono: Sauteed king butterfish with spring vegetables and butter soy sauce. Nice, but....forgettable
- Nimono: Dashi-marinated golden eye snapper and vegetables. Again, well cooked but otherwise rather bland and forgettable too.
- Oshyokuji: Grilled Spanish mackerel and taro over rice, inaniwa udon soup and pickles. Lovely and homey, but very straightforward with no small twists or surprises to make it feel personalized.
- Amami 1: Japanese strawberry parfait. Our first dessert, and of course it was focused on strawberries. It was tasty but not too sweet--as expected.
- Amami 2: Sakura mochi with vanilla and rhubarb. Our second dessert, and it was a unique creation, though "sakura" wasn't really the actual flavor (it rarely is). I liked the marriage of vanilla and rhubarb.
- Complimentary cookie box to take home: Free and scrumptious. Wish there'd been more of this creativity in the actual meal.
I think my disappointment with Kappo Sono came down to the fact that the price + difficulty of getting a resy + the chef's pedigree just didn't add up to a wow meal. I paid much less for the kaiseki/tasting menus at places like Hakubai and Raymond Yuu and walked away not only dazzled by the culinary talents, but also--and most importantly--feeling like I'd gotten my money's worth. Kappo Sono was Ootoya cooking at Per Se prices, and in these inflationary times, that just doesn't cut it for me. read more