My mother-in-law, my wife and I travelled to Japan together in 1991. We spent time in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Matsushima Bay before travelling to my wife's uncles house in the country. Somewhere along the way or as a side trip, we went to Fukuoka where I had Hakata Ramen for the first time.
Since then, anywhere that I've seen it on the menu, I order Hakata Style Ramen, trying to relive the flavors and textures. Never once have I been successful until we walked into Hakata Ramen & Bar.
It is a relatively small, somewhat dark, unassuming building. You look through the windows and you can't really see all that much. Maybe some of the guests, but the lighting is just right to read the menu if you have perfect eyesight (otherwise your phone flashlight might come in handy). The tables are communal, so you will sit next to strangers. And the restaurant does not take reservations.
We stepped in around 5:10 on a Thursday night. The host greeted us, confirmed that we were just two people and brought to the end of a tall eight -top. Four seats were already filled and the last two were filled within five minutes.
I knew that I had to have Hakata Tonkotsu Ramen. She had the same. We both stuck to the regular size, so we'd have room to try the Chicken Karaage and from the Seasonal Menu, the Katsu Curry Hirata. For beverages, she got the Hakata Sunset, and I ordered the Kiwi Mojito, both are Mocktails.
What is a Hirata? Apparently, it's a steamed white bun, similar to the bun you might get in a Chinese restaurant to eat Peking Duck, sandwich. Potentially, it can be quite messy if you don't hold it right and the filling flies out. And we made it more challenging by cutting it half first (for sharing purposes). That darned little thing was delicious! She gave it a score of 4. I say 5.
The Karaage was five pieces, looked fried hard, and maybe a bit dry. It too, was scrumptious. And once again, we disagree on the score. Her 4. Me 5.
The drinks were both pretty good for being mocktails. I think hers had more pizazz. It was very colorful as a Sunset should be and had great layers of flavor. Mine was refreshing but I thought that it was more lime than kiwi. More mint and some proper muddling may have improved the flavor of the drink. Her 5. Me 4.
Now, the Ramen. 5 + 5. Darned nearly perfect. Granted, it has been 32 years and my taste buds have changed. However, this is the closest to what I had enjoyed in Hakata so many years ago. If I were a glutton for punishment, we would have come back to this restaurant at least one more time but we only had a week in London and we had to be fair to ourselves.
Go and go early in the evening or be prepared to wait. The dining room was packed when we left at 6:06pm. We had unknowingly gulped down our food so fast that we were too full to order anything else, so we to give up our seats. I think that the host was losing guests when he told them that the wait could be up to 45 minutes. The bar is downstairs and he invited folks to go down and have a drink but most people were hungry and looking for food. Good thing for them there are plenty of good choices to be had on Bermondsey Street. Too bad that all of the good ones are packed!
I realized that I only got 5 pages of the 6 page menu. Oops. If anyone wants to fly me back so I can photograph that 6th page, I might be able to find some time in my schedule!
Keep reading my reviews to see where else we indulged ourselves. read more