Another absolutely amazing food experience from Chef Nobuo Fukuda who already gifted us with great dishes made with Sonoran produce at SeeSaw back in the 90's, and Teeter House downtown.
The retro-vibed atmosphere of the Papago Motor Inn complements the laid back pace of your meal.
This is not a sushi spot or an Izakaya. Hai Noon is a chef presenting southwestern ingredients in a most respectful, flavorful and innovative manner. I was lucky enough to return 3 times in the past month. To my surprise, ingredients and sauces did not repeat themselves, and dishes were completely distinct in flavor and presentation. This is definitely my favorite food experience of the past few years...anywhere.
All of our visits were handled by our waiter/guide "Arizona", who described dishes, and when asked what his favorites were (and unlike many other places that say everything is good when it isn't), he informed us we would love everything, but he could help us with the order we ate them, and suggest a sampling if we were just picking out a half dozen dishes. He was right. Everything was captivating, surprising and...absolutely delicious.
Do not miss the specials...there will be 4 or 5 on a small piece of paper, and a couple of "special" drinks. These are seasonal items the chef wants to add because of the timing and presentation. They exemplify the category...they are indeed, SPECIAL.
The second visit established a pattern. Have Arizona order, until you are full. He checked in with us along the way, and made a few modifications based on our hunger level, and allowing for certain dishes to be repeated.
A few things really stood out because I hadn't tasted anything quite like those dishes. Other dishes ie: variations on classic aguachile, were just better than anything I've had elsewhere. Salmon and Whitefish carpaccios were both stellar, with really good hot sesame oil adding to the dish's garlic, ginger and Yuzu base. And, when you are done with the last bite of fish, they bring out rich, grilled slices of bread to mop up that sauce.
We last started with Sashimi featuring Sea Bream, that had fatty belly, and less fatty but oh-so-flavorful filet slices, and an accompanying broth. Big Eye Tuna was served on a flavorful beet puree with sweet dark cherry wine notes. Since we didn't read the menu's notes before, a quick check showed that Nobuo does create a Pinot Noir reduction that invites wiping the plate clean. The first time, the Tuna and all traces of the puree were finished by the time Arizona walked out to describe the dish for us. That's why I re-ordered it each time we visited.
Soup spoons present a sashimi/ceviche/aguachile experience that is delicate, nuanced, complex and downright spectacular in your mouth. Whether it showcased an oyster, hamachi or kampachi, each spoon was an amazing taste experience with complementing flavors and textures that were completely unexpected.
Softshell Crab with cold noodles was the most succulent Softshell crab I have ever enjoyed, warm, beautifully moist and flavor popping within its crispy exterior, set off by the chilled vinegar and broth accented noodles.
Brussel Sprouts with a honey mustard and wasabi glaze disappeared immediately. As it turns out, wasabi is the missing ingredient in many Brussel Sprout dishes! The Yams with goat cheese and Fresno chiles reminded me of the amazing fire-grilled gourds and yam dishes I have had at Bacanora...just unique and different.
Two Wash chicken was beautifully caramelized finger food that I could also have made a meal out of. We thought it was amazing, and then the chef came out and told us how inspired he was when he first met the chicken farmers and cooked with their chicken, and if possible, the chicken became even more memorable for the story and connection.
Curry marinated lamb was rich, and savory, and was another dish I could make a meal out of. The Pork Belly and Mushroom rice was likewise delicious, and full or deep umami richness and delectable meat and mushroom morsels. The Mushrooms en papillote (mushrooms served in paper), had absorbed what tasted like a delicious Veal Stock, were tastily caramelized, and then steamed in the paper container. They were so good we had to have another...and we weren't skimping on food.
Beverages (Alcoholic and non) get the same attention. The cocktail list sounds absolutely crazy, with improbable ingredients. But all of the ones we sampled work, and they are wonderful (sharing amongst our table, we have now tried over half of the cocktails...and so far, they are damn great drinks). The beer selection is small and ideal for the food, as are the well-chosen cold sakes that span all budgets.
It is better with a small group of people so you can really explore the breadth of fabulous offerings, but I think it's also an amazing spot to share food on a date! read more