Any good Portland food historian would know that the heydey for this location was Wong's King (#1), which really helped re-establish the legitimacy of Portland's Chinese food scene. This Montavilla part of Portland has become the main Chinese enclave of the city, especially since Old Town's Chinatown has become a shell of itself. (#2) Excellent Cuisine picked right up where Wong's King's since the pandemic and have remained a steady option for Cantonese and dim sum lovers in the area.
While the English name seems bold, it's a much simpler take than their poetic Chinese name ("魚樂軒") which is more akin to a "pavillion of joy" with the play on words of fish (魚) like the auspicious phrase "年年有餘" to suggest that each year to blessed with abundance.
The place has held up well over the years, with a large number of round tables, a wannabe banquet interior, and plenty of Toisanese waitresses running the show. The steady regulars that still frequent the place are typically Chinese, and thus this place is really as local as it gets.
Their dim sum hour has proved popular, which offer a lot of the very classics that people have come to enjoy: shrimp dumplings, siu mai, sticky rice wraps, and pork spareribs over rice rolls. The mini wooden serving vessels are a nice alternative to the stainless steel steamer baskets.
As with most Cantonese banquet places, their dinner hour is where they shine and Excellent Cuisine is no exception. Their longevity noodles (乾燒伊麵) were very tasty and not too greasy, while the fried salt and pepper fish (椒鹽炸魚片) nearly stole the show with just the right amount of seasoning and crunch. I still can't get over there semi spicy cucumber salad (涼拌黃瓜) as a starter (#3), which had plenty of spice and a good kick. The scallops over Chinese broccoli (帶子芥蘭) were an immediate hit, and the first dish to be completely cleared out. My forever favorite, eggs and shrimp (蝦仁炒蛋 / 滑蛋蝦仁) were silky smooth and the sauteed string beans (四季豆) had just the right amount of snap and plenty of flavor.
The prices are on part with the sticker shock that is now Portland dining, but the real blemish was the service. Several of the waitresses rushed the order, were difficult to reach, and in turn, gave my table plenty of attitude. While service is never optimal at many Asian spots, the expectation changes when one pays above the certain price (#4).
Despite it all, I'm extremely satisfied with my experience at Excellent Cuisine, which mostly lived up to its name. I hope to return one day with more folks and hopefully by then, the service will have straightened itself out.
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(#1) https://www.yelp.com/biz/wongs-king-seafood-restaurant-portland
(#2) https://www.yelp.com/biz/chinatown-portland-portland
(#3) Everyone in the US is trying to capitalize on the Sichuan cuisine craze.
(#4) In my case, $140+ read more