Considering their recent experience with power outages and complete road-blocked closures it shouldn't be surprising that Big Sur eateries have a bit of a thing about low lighting. They don't embrace it, they celebrate it. Deetjen's lighting, certainly where we were sitting, facing into a corner like naughty schoolchildren, was low to the point of it feeling like trying to read the fine print on a prescription bottle by the light of the moon. A crescent one.
But our cheery server, and my phone, came to the rescue and the dinner menu was rich, varied, and mouth-watering, even the rack of lamb was made to sound good. And we're recent vegetarians. Well, strictly, pescatarians, and we quickly fell for the crab cakes to share as a starter. The two cakes themselves were tasty - almost spicy - flanking a mound of assorted greens that were maybe rather too smothered in a pink (I know this because I had my phone trained in on it) peppery aioli.
Delia opted for the Mixed Greens, with Roasted Corn and Cauliflower, English Peas, Cherry Tomato, Cucumber, Sunflower & Pumpkin
Seeds, lightly coated by an Hibiscus Vinaigrette. It met with approval if, unlike the crab cake salad, slightly too lightly dressed. I had the vegetarian risotto 'made with butter,' our server had said. Was it ever! The risotto included bell pepper, English peas, mushrooms and asparagus, adeptly surrounded by a ribbon of rich plant-based Porcini mushroom broth. The flavor was so intense that for a moment I was concerned that it was a beef broth. The risotto was rich and flavorful, with an emphasis on the rich. God knows how much butter was in it but I barely ate a fifth of the portion. Way too creamy for me. And I like creamy. The lighting definitely harshed my mellow with the risotto because I do like to 'see' what I'm eating, especially where and when many different vegetables are involved. Or else you might was well be eating out of a bucket.
There was no way I could have managed a dessert but I needed something to refresh my palette and the (very pleasant) vanilla bean ice cream was as close as I could get to a lemon sorbet, which was what I really needed.
The food here is good, for sure, without approaching great. But compared with other eateries in Big Sur (we ate at Nepenthe the night before and had a veggie burger that tasted like I imagine would pureed chancletas), it was Michelin Three Star. Come to Big Sur for the haut views, not cuisine.
The worst of Deetjen's was, I'm sorry to say as an ex professional musician, the music. Vivaldi and Mozart is NOT restaurant music. Way too busy and jumpy. Too much going on. The service was brisk already but with four-seasoned magic flutes and what all else flying about our ears I was almost desperate to get out by the end. Perhaps that was the point?
This is a charming restaurant, originally and somewhat fussily decorated by an English lady 'way back in 1939' apparently (or, as us Brits would call that, basically last week). And the food, too, is a little hit and miss. We'd like to try Deetjen's again, especially if they invest in some different music. And some spot lighting! read more