This is, without reserve, my favorite place in Edinburgh to spend an afternoon. Two words: no tourists. Well, very few anyhow. I have been to the castle 5 times now, each time with different visiting friends/family, and 2 of those times, we were the ONLY visitors.
The path to the castle, as in runs from the Royal Infirmary through Craigmillar Park, works to a nice effect. You are strolling along through a sort of meadowland, and then you crest the hill, and whoa! Crouched on the crown of the hill is a large and haunting ruin, so impressive that you're surprised you haven't seen huge Come to Craigmillar adverts posted all over the high street. But, again, that's the point.
The ruins are extensive, full of nooks and crannies and winding stairspossibly the best place ever to play hide-and-seek. Also, signage and other modern frills are kept to a minimum, so it's easy to pretend you're Mary, Queen of Scots while taking in the Great Hall or walking the windy battlements (she spent a good deal of time hiding out here, apparently).
The staff is friendly and leaves you alone to explore as you may. All this, plus a 4 pound entrance fee, and you're left wondering why in the heck you paid so much to see that other castle, with the tourist crowds and inevitable accompanying cheese factor.
Out of 5 stars, Craigmillar Castle gets a whopping 5.5! read more