We chose Nicholas Barrel & Roost based on the menu and an almost 4 star rating on Yelp with over…read more500 reviews. The halibut caught my eye immediately; I'm a sucker for a perfectly prepared piece of halibut or a great pork chop, and since my partner doesn't eat meat it made for an easy share. Earlier in the day, a couple of women at our hotel bar mentioned the chef had trained at Jean-Georges in Manhattan, which only added to our anticipation. It wasn't until we got back to the hotel after dinner and did a little reading that we learned just how decorated Harary really is; his Restaurant Nicholas held Zagat's top spot in New Jersey for 15 consecutive years and earned a 4-star New York Times review. That context made our middling meal sting just a little more.
We started with the bread service and the beet salad. The bread itself was baked beautifully, but the butter and ricotta accompanying it were completely flavorless. My partner and I are not salt-at-the-table people; we trust that seasoning happened in the kitchen. This was the first time in recent memory that we actually reached for the salt shaker. Not a great sign.
The beet salad should have been a showstopper. Beets, when done right, can carry an entire dish on their own. Instead, they were buried under an avalanche of arugula. Don't get me wrong, arugula is one of my favorite greens; that peppery bite and beautiful texture are hard to beat, but here it was doing all the heavy lifting while the beets sat underneath doing nothing. We'd eaten most of the salad before we even noticed the sunflower seeds and a smear of mascarpone hiding on the bottom of the bowl. That mascarpone, gently flaked on top with the seeds scattered over it to catch in the folds, could have made this dish genuinely memorable. The gorgeous candy-striped radishes were a lovely visual touch, but they were raw, undressed slices with no seasoning, no acid, no pickling. Beautiful to look at; an afterthought to eat. The whole salad felt that way, honestly.
For our main, we shared the Panko Crusted Halibut with bok choy and smoked shallot velouté. The sauce was the star; the smoke level was dialed in perfectly, present in all the right ways without overpowering everything else. The wild mushrooms were lovely, but the dish needed something to break up the texture. The bok choy brought good flavor, but it mirrored the mushrooms so closely that each bite started to blur together. Something crispy, something sharp, would have elevated the whole thing considerably. The fish itself was cooked well; firm, flakey, and not dried out. The panko crust was gorgeous to look at but could have been crispier. Based on its beautiful golden color, it looked like it had more crunch than it actually delivered.
The cocktails were a genuine highlight. An old fashioned made with 1792 and a Black Manhattan, both well-crafted and the clearest bright spots of the evening.
The three people behind the bar were another highlight. Expedient, attentive, never rushing anyone, and willing to make easy conversation without being intrusive. That is exactly what you want from people working a good bar.
The ambiance, though, was confusing. The space seemed to pull in two directions at once; it wanted to feel upscale but also like a sports bar, and it never fully committed to either. Three small TVs tucked into the corners would have been fine. The oversized screen mounted prominently on the wall was intrusive and clashed hard with any sense of elevated dining. The music was classic rock, which I enjoy, but it read as wrong for the room and was a tad too loud. The music for this type of setting should be something to just add some ambiance, not for people to shout-sing too like you've had too many beers at a dive karaoke bar, which I love by the way, this was just not that kind of place.
Those same women from the hotel bar had also warned us it could get loud and obnoxious in there. We figured we'd take our chances. We probably should have listened.
With the legacy behind this place, the potential is clearly there. The bar staff gets it. Now the kitchen and the room just need to catch up.