After pouting and cursing for several minutes outside of the closed sign on the door of Franklin's BBQ in Austin, we decided to satisfy our BBQ craving and take a quick road trip to Lockhart. Along the way, we heard about an even better place about 20 minutes further, in the town of Luling. So we just kept on driving, building up more excitement for the highly regarded City Market. Along the way, we hit a patch of road where the air distinctly smelled of crude oil. Ah yes, we are on the right path to a true Texas BBQ experience. Before entering City Market, we were welcomed by a nice group of young ladies selling girl scout cookies. They attested to the amazing BBQ that we were about to destroy, which made our mouths water even more. We go in, and instantly get the rural small-town Texas restaurant feel. The smoking room, where they sell the meat, is in the back, and the windows look severely coated in a thick brown layer of flavors past. We make a beeline for the back, hop in line, and within a few minutes we've entered the back room. It's dark, the men look serious with construction helmets, and it smells amazing. We quickly place our order for moist and lean brisket, a couple rings of sausage, and a handful of ribs. Potato salad, we're told, is sold up front. As they were serving up our request, we noticed that the brisket looked really hot. Smoke was coming out of the meat at cutting, which alarmed us that maybe this meat hasn't fully rested yet. Also, the cuts were not very uniform, in that we got thin slices and thick slices of brisket, some around 1/2" thick. Additionally, we learned later that we ended up also paying for a large gelatinous fat cap slice that we didn't know what to do with. We got our meaty goodness handed over in a butcher paper hammock, and we grabbed a picnic table up at the front. On to the tasting.
Disclaimer: Our preferences for BBQ center around having a good dry rub, smoke flavor, and subsequently flavorful bark. While sauce was available, we chose to go without it.
The brisket (which we were a little concerned about due to smoke coming out of it at cutting) was cooked ok, and had a slight smoked flavor. But that's about it. The meat tasted more like roast and the bark didn't really have any spice flavor to add to it. It almost tasted like they just put a light dusting of salt and pepper, not even enough to taste. Even the slice of fat lacked any flavor on its crust. It was very disappointing. (Score: 2 out of 5)
Hopefully we would find something good here. So, we moved on to the sausage.
The sausage was a 90/10 beef and pork mixture, no cheese or jalapenos. It had good texture, slightly crumbly, not greasy, and good beef flavor. The pork casing was not overly tough, but nice and crispy. The absence of peppers or cheese allowed for the beef to really shine. Good smoke flavor was present, which is hard to find around here with sausage. (Score: 4 out of 5)
Somewhat redeemed by the sausage, we then moved on to the ribs.
The ribs were glazed in sauce, but they might have let it caramelize a little too long, as it had a somewhat tough jerky-like outer skin. This could be considered a good or bad thing, depending on your preference. The middle ribs of the rack were cooked well and tore apart cleanly, but the smaller ribs on the ends were a little too dry, which would imply slightly overcooked. Also, depending on your taste preferences, these ribs ached for more rub to give it some spice and a kick. They opted for a very light sweet flavor, but it could still benefit from some more rub and thus more in-your-face flavor. (Score: 3 out of 5)
Based on their reputation and other reviews, we are giving them the benefit of the doubt that today was a bad day for them. Very unfortunate.
However, based on today's tasting, I would not put them in the same category as Franklin's or Louie Mueller. Or Rudy's. If you are traveling from Austin, there's no need to rush out to Luling. Save yourself the speeding ticket or just eat somewhere closer like Lockhart. Otherwise, drive the speed limit - a speeding ticket would be salt on a wound... And City Market needs all the salt rub they can get. read more