Maybe it's because I have visited China Café often enough over the past few years to be its Duke, or maybe it's the way the owner of this twenty plus year establishment smiles at me when she sees me walk in, but the food here seems to be getting better.
The joint still looks every day of its longevity in Lalor Plaza, and sorely needs a makeover that brightens it up and takes the storage out of the dining room, and it wouldn't be the worse thing in the world if Mr. Café trimmed his Confucian beard. Nonetheless, some kind of magic is happening in the kitchen that is creating more distinct and enjoyable dishes from the lunch menu.
Today, the Hot & Sour Soup took me by surprise. I told the Mrs. that I did not want MSG in it, and she assured me there would be none. Sure enough, the small bowl arrived without the telltale sheen on the surface that denotes the presence of the food enhancer to which I am allergic. It was loaded with tofu, sprouts and other veggies, and had a great taste. Next up was the Roast Pork Egg Foo Young. It came out as two pancake omelets full of sliced pork, veggies, and covered in the ubiquitous brown sauce. The eggs were not particularly oily and the sauce was hot without the aftertaste of sitting around too long. Liked it a lot.
No one will mistake China Café for fine dining, but it seems to have found its equilibrium at a higher point than most other local wok shops. The ingredients seemed fresher, and the attention to detail and timing of the elements more rigorous. Given that I rarely give such houses more than an Okay grade, the upmark for this place is significant.
Whatever the reason, China Café has my appreciation, with sincere hope that it continues on this path. read more